For my first mushroom dyeing project, I decided to use the Boletus edulis that popped up in great quantity under the oak tree in our yard, after the fall and winter rains. The mushrooms had already started to deteriorate by the time I harvested them, but, according to my research, this can actually produce more dye color.
I decided to recycle three of the cotton dish towels in my stash, and overdye them with the mushroom dye. The dish towels had been mordanted with alum. Mushroom dyes typically work better with protein-based fibers than plant-based fibers, but I was curious to try dyeing with cotton for myself. I also decided to use a different mordant additive for each of the three dish towels—alum, titanium oxide, and ferrous sulfate—in three separate dye experiments.
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| Boletus edulis later in its life cycle |
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| The Boletus mushroom cap underside consists of densely packed pores |
The dye color for B. edulis comes from the mushroom cap underside, which is very spongy. I separated the spongy cap underside to harvest the dye material. The color is greenish-yellow.
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| Spongy mushroom cap undersides |
Extract the Dye
The first step is to extract the dye from the mushroom pieces, using the heat extraction method that I've used for many other dye projects over the years.
Place the chopped up mushrooms in a pot covered with water, and bring the temperature slowly to 185 °F (this takes about an hour). Out of curiosity, I tested the pH of the liquid, which registered 6 (mildly acid).
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| Chopped up Boletus edulis mushroom pieces |
Stir in 1 T. + 1 tsp. of Alum to the water. I checked the pH again, which then registered 2 (strongly acid). Heat the dye pot to 180 - 185°. This takes about an hour. Let the pot simmer for another hour. The mushroom slurry is a rich brown color, very slimy, and smells like a delicious, hearty stew. The pore tubes, through which spores travel, separate from each other in the slurry and look like worms.
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| Mushroom slurry draining through cheese cloth |
Let the mixture cool for several hours. When cool, strain the liquid through the sieve lined with cheese cloth. Save the dye liquid and discard the strained mushroom goo. Cover the dye pot and store it in a cool place until ready to dye.
Dye the Fabric
Next, dye the fabric with the mushroom dye liquid. For this experiment, I recycled a cotton dish towel that had been mordanted with alum and solar-dyed with beet stems, which had produced a pale brownish-gray with a tinge of pink in certain light (see Dye Project: Beet Stems). I used a third of the dye and added more alum as an additive, saving the rest of the dye extract for two future experiments.
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| Boletus dye pot with alum additive |
Place the extracted mushroom dye in a dye pot and stir in 1 T. + 1 tsp alum. I tested the pH of the liquid, which now registered 3 (moderately acid). Meanwhile, place the dish towel in clear water to soak for 20-30 minutes, to enable the fibers to soak up the dye.
Heat the mushroom dye to 185 °F (this takes about an hour). Squeeze out the wet towel, and place it in the dye. Simmer for one hour, maintaining the temperature of 185°. Add water periodically to keep the fabric covered with dye extract.
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| Steep the cotton fabric overnight |
Turn off the heat and let the fabric steep in the dye overnight. The next day, squeeze out excess dye, rinse the fabric, and then run it through the washing machine (cold water only), and hang to dry.
Full disclosure: I wasn't thinking, and actually added a mild textile soap [like Synthropol or Professional Textile Detergent (a.k.a., Dharma Dyer's Detergent)] to the rinse, and then dried the towel in the dryer (I usually just rinse and hang to dry, and then wash in mild detergent two weeks later, giving the dye time to set). It seemed to work OK, but was not my usual process.
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| Squeeze out excess dye and rinse thoroughly |
The resulting color was a greenish-yellow when wet (reminiscent of the mushroom underside), but it dried to a lighter shade. The photo appears more tan than the actual color. I wondered if the mushroom dye actually dyed the fabric at all, or did it simply cause a slight over-dye reaction with the previous beet stem dye? It will be interesting to see the outcome of the future experiments planned, using titanium and iron.
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| The resulting color is actually more greenish-yellow than the photo shows |




















