Backside of the Salton Sea

After a civilized morning of drinking coffee, eating dark chocolate almond clusters, and reading the newspaper, my folks and I headed for Borrego Springs by way of the Salton Sea. We typically travel down the westside of the Salton Sea on Highway 86 to access the road to Borrego Springs, stopping at some of the lakeside towns like Desert Shores, Salton Sea Beach, and Salton City.

Salton Sea Visitor Center

This year we decided to travel down the eastside of the lake on Highway 11 at the base of the Chocolate Mountains. The weather was surprisingly mild with a cool breeze. We stopped at the Visitor Center at the Salton Sea State Recreation Area near Mecca, California, and learned more about the natural and human history of the lake.

Picnic area on the Salton Sea

Snow capped mountains in the distance

The lake is a large inland sea, with an elevation of 227 feet below sea level. We had always understood that the lake had formed in the early 1900s when the Colorado River flooded the area after spring rains. The film shown in the Visitor Center indicated that there was more intentional human intervention in its formation.

Healthy Palo Verde (Parkinsonia aculeate) at the Visitor Center

Tamarisk at the Visitor Center

The lake was a popular recreational destination for many years, but has been drying up as water has been diverted for other uses. Currently the lake is fed mostly by agricultural runoff, which causes health and environmental concern. A task force is investigating how to repair the damage. We enjoyed the sweeping views, big sky, and healthy looking plants in the area thanks to the winter rains.

"Sand"

Mummified fish

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The backside of the Salton Sea is an interesting blend of geology and agriculture – geothermal power plants are interspersed among lush and prosperous looking farms. I wanted to see some mud pots so we headed off the main highway on a tip from the Internet. We saw mud volcanos from afar.

Mud flats

Mud volcanoes

We spent some time hunting for obsidian deposits near Obsidian Butte. Obsidian is volcanic glass - quite beautiful, but can be sharp on the edges!

Looking for obsidian

Obsidian deposit

After exploring the area, we cut across the southern end of Salton Sea to meet up with Highway 78 and the road to Borrego Springs. We checked into our rooms at the Palm Canyon Hotel and RV Resort, and then headed to Carmelita’s Mexican Grill for a delicious dinner. We had great conversation about the day, and about family history. Mom recalled taking the train to Brawley alone when she was eight (under the watchful eye of the conductor) to visit Aunt Mary Bina and Uncle Carl in the 1940s. Family ties!

The hotel was participating in a Dark Sky event, so the grounds were dimly lit. Mom and I took a quick walk around the grounds to enjoy the display of stars against the dark New Moon sky.

Whitewater Preserve

For the last 10 years or so, I’ve been meeting my folks down in Southern California for our annual trek into the desert for flower viewing. They fly down from Southeast Alaska and I fly down from the San Francisco Bay Area. Our quest is beautiful flowers, but we also enjoy each other’s company. They taught me how to enjoy the simple pleasures of life, and how to explore the natural world.

Heading up Whitewater Canyon Road to the Preserve

We love to find new things, and to compare differences from year to year. After a five-year drought, followed by heavy winter rains, we were eager to get out on the desert floor. We have always found flowers and ingenious survival mechanisms in nature, but had high hopes to see more this year.

Photo op for Brittlebush

We took a lot of pictures of Brittlebush

One of our favorite outings is to Whitewater Preserve, located off Interstate 10 heading east, right after the Highway 111 exit to Palm Springs. The canyon hills were ablaze with yellow Brittlebush (Encelia farinosa) like we have never seen it. The roadside and hills glowed with a golden light.

Picnic area at the Visitor Center

We picnicked at the Visitor Center under the big beautiful cottonwood trees. Everything was lush and green – bouncing back after prolonged water deprivation. The weather was unseasonably cool, so we sought out some sun under the leafy trees.

Desert X installation at Whitewater Preserve

One I Call, by Sherin Guirguis (pigeon tower)

Desert X had an installation near the visitor center—One I Call, by Sherin Guirguis—a mud hut inspired by traditional pigeon towers found in desert villages throughout Egypt. I loved its tidy architectural design, its sheltered and airy inside, and how it fits right into the desert environment. Desert X is sponsoring the art event, which features established and emerging artists, all over the Coachella Valley (February 25 – April 30). Many people were making the rounds to see the installations, and we were grateful to get in on it at Whitewater.

Outside view of One I Call

Inside view of One I Call

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Dad wanted to check some plants in the area to see how their seeds were developing, so Mom and I hiked out on the river bed.

Hiking at the Preserve

Intrepid hiker

We found the bridge to cross the river (which had quite a bit of water flowing), and walked up toward the Pacific Crest Trail. We loved the big blue sky, clear air, and sweeping vistas of the river bed, and rocky hills. The desert plants looked healthy and green with the plentiful water after spring rains.

Crossing the bridge over Whitewater River

Big sky country in So Cal

Pacific Crest Trail access from Whitewater Preserve

Later we met up with Dad and walked around the lakes near the Visitor Center, identifying the native plants (and relying on the great signage when memory failed)! The native plants are maturing and flourishing along the trail around the lakes.

Lake at Whitewater Preserve

Native plants surround the lakes

The lakes are thriving with fish, tadpoles, frogs, lizards, and birds. The Sugar Bush (Rhus ovata) was fragrant and beautiful, along with the Brittle Bush, and Chuparosa (Beloperone californica).

Lakeside walk

Late afternoon Brittlebush

For dinner, we headed to Applebee’s for their half-racks of ribs, and great conversation. We did some last-minute planning for the next day’s journey to the Salton Sea, Borrego Springs, and Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and then relaxed for the evening. A great day!

Sunset at day's end

Spring Details at Filoli

I love the details in a garden – all the small touches, whether authored by the gardener or nature, that bring the garden to life. Last week my parents, aunt, and I visited Filoli, about 30 miles south of San Francisco. Filoli is an estate house and garden designed in the early twentieth century.

Purple and white tulips stand out against blue and purple flowers

Quite a few years ago, my aunt, uncle, and folks visited Filoli after a wet winter following a prolonged drought. They have spoken many times about the exceptional beauty (everything had bloomed at once that year). We were eager to see the garden this year in a similar circumstance – after a wet winter following a five-year drought.

Pink tulips seem to float over the blue forget-me-nots

While at the garden, I simply absorbed all its beauty. Later, I studied my photographs for interesting color combinations, the spring color palette, and the effects of various colors, using ideas from Penelope Hobhouse in Color in Your Garden.

Lovely palette of pinks, blues, and spring green (with a pop of red)

Some of these concepts are distilled in Color Theory and Designing with Color. Light transmits in wavelengths (blue has a short wavelength; green and yellow have a mid-wavelength; and red has a long wavelength). Blue and red force the eye to refocus. Red objects appear to advance to foreshorten the distance, appearing closer and retaining their form as you move away. Blue objects appear to recede into the distance, and blur as you move away.

The red azaleas are strong even into the distance of the Wedding Garden

I also just enjoyed the details of the garden hardscape and plants. The floral arrangements are extravagant and lovely, using material from the Cutting Garden. The raised planter is perfectly positioned to grow herbs at waist height. The Garden House is still my favorite place for its garden view, floral arrangements, and the fantasy of enjoying morning coffee and newspaper in the light-filled room. The garden shop is filled with beautiful plants and accessories. The garden is designed for multiple seasons.

Floral arrangement in the House	Floral arrangement in Admissions
Raised-bed herb garden	Garden House tulips
Crow fountain in the Gift Shop	Seasonal plantings in the Rose Garden

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Filoli is also a great spot to explore nature - birds, bees, lizards, seeds and seed pods, and seasonal interest. They are all part of the details that bring a garden to life.

Lizard spotting

I’m looking forward to visiting Filoli again one fall, to complete our seasonal tour of Filoli Gardens!

Filoli in Spring

Filoli in spring – what could be more beautiful? Except maybe Filoli in spring after an exceptionally wet winter! My parents were in the San Francisco Bay Area last week, so my aunt, folks, and I headed for Woodside, CA to visit the Filoli estate garden.

Grand entrance with tulips and wisteria

Family pose in front of the wisteria

My aunt and I have made a couple of seasonal visits (see Filoli in Winter and Filoli in Summer to compare). We enjoyed both visits – seeing the bones in winter, and fruition in summer. But spring is the masterpiece and main event.

Sunken Garden with tulips

The Garden House from the Southwest Terrace

I was blown away at the intensity, beauty and variety of wisteria, tulips in shades of pink and purple, masses of forget-me-nots, azaleas, lilacs, cherry trees and more. When the sun came out, the petals glowed.

Shades of blue and purple on the Southwest Terrace

Tulips and forget-me-nots in the Walled Garden

The palette leaned toward pinks, blues, and purples, but was punctuated with reds, whites, melons, and shades of new spring green.

Tulips in purples and white in the Walled Garden

Swath of forget-me-nots in the Walled Garden

We might have stepped into a Claude Monet painting of his garden in Giverny, France. Every vista, view, and turn of a corner brought a new delight and shade of beauty.

Azaleas near the Wedding Place

Olive Orchard carpeted with forget-me-nots