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Wednesday, March 5, 2025

Spring Watch

The signs of spring are starting to emerge in the San Francisco Bay Area! The temperature is still cool (highs that are between mid-fifties and mid-sixties F, and cooler at night), and we're having a range of weather including strong breezes, morning fog burning off to full sun, rain, overcast skies, and beautiful mild days. The variety is wonderful and plants are responding to the changes in temperature and conditions.


California buckeye (Aesculus californica)


The California buckeye leaves are starting to unfurl in bright spring green. I've been observing the progress on a tree that is located near the reservoir. It is amazing to see the miniature details of the leaves as they open from their protective sheaths. California buckeye is toxic, but Indigenous people processed the seeds to produce a staple food (roasted the seeds, mashed them, and then leached them to remove the poison). They also used the seeds in streams and waterways to stupefy fish for easy capture.


California poppy (Eschscholzia californica)


The California poppies are starting to appear along roadsides, in grassy areas, and in highway medians. The little cup of gold is bound to bring you cheer! This one is growing in our yard along with several others (lots of buds are poised to open). This poppy is the California state flower, grows as an annual and a perennial, and is self-seeding in the right conditions. Indigenous people used the seeds and leaves for food, the petals as a hair dressing and yellow dye, the pollen as a cosmetic; and prepared a tea from the chopped plant as a remedy for headache, toothache, and insomnia.


California lilac (Ceanothus spp.)


The California lilac blooms in shades from pale blue to dark blue to deep purple, as well as white. The flowers are fragrant and pollinators love them! This specimen is in the neighborhood and has been in bloom for several weeks now. Native Americans used the dried leaves as an herbal tea, and used Ceanothus integerrimus to ease childbirth. The Miwok people of Northern California make baskets from the branches.

I've enjoyed the days and weeks of winter, hunkering down at home or walking in the neighborhood and Oakland hills, but seeing the new life emerging makes me eager for the beauty and pleasures of spring!


Wednesday, February 26, 2025

Indian Uses of Native Plants

This year we're diving into ethnobotany, or "the study of how people use plants in different cultures, regions, and time periods", with special focus on plants that are used for dyeing or decorating fabric or objects. Our first book is Indian Uses of Native Plants, by Edith Van Allen Murphey (1879-1968). The book was published by Meyerbooks, Illinois, 1990; and Mendocino County Historical Society, 1958, 1987. Ms. Murphey served for ten years in the Inter-Mountain area for United States Bureau of Indian Affairs. Their primary interest was to identify and eliminate stock-poisoning plants on Indian cattle and sheep ranges.

The Inter-Mountain area encompasses National Forest System lands within Utah, Nevada, western Wyoming, southern Idaho, and a small portion of California. Four geographic areas come together  in the area—the Great Basin, Colorado Plateau, Middle Rocky Mountains, and Northern Rocky Mountains—which are rich with native and endemic species. The contacts that Ms. Murphey made during her research for the BIA, enabled her to gather data on plant uses by various indigenous people groups throughout the region. Ms. Murphey describes that at first the indigenous groups were reluctant to come forward with information, but after learning that the purpose was to document the knowledge so it would not be lost, they came forward willingly and proudly.



The Preface, Forward, and Introduction provide information and context for the book. The bulk of the content is organized into 19 categories, such as Indian Foods, Famine Foods, Feasts, The Salt Journey, Medicinal Plants, Ceremonials and Magic, Bows and Arrows, and Tepees. Each category includes information about plants and their uses, and provides Common Names, Botanical Names, and indigenous names. Some uses are cosmopolitan (shared across tribes), others are unique to specific tribes (often based on the what is available in specific regions). Also included are interesting details, such as how a medicine was prepared, how infants were cared for, and how some of the old methods have evolved in modern times. The backmatter includes Dictionary of Plant Names (Common, Indian, and Botanical), Index of Scientific Names, and Index of Common Names. The scientific names are typically updated with each printing.

Indian Uses of Native Plants is full of information, processes, methods, and lore. My favorite categories include Basketry, Dye Plants, and Tanning Hides. I had assumed that most dyes would be used for fabric and wool, but found they are more often used for basketry and for coloring hides and feathers. Surprisingly, fibers from various plants are woven into a basket to provide color, rather than the basket material being dyed. Alum is a frequent mordant (obtained from plant roots, or from minerals in the desert). Some dye material is naturally high in tannin, so no additional mordant is required (such as Wolf Moss or rock lichens). This book is a gem for anyone interested in ethnobotany in the Inter-Mountain area.

Wednesday, February 19, 2025

Field Notes for February 2025

Welcome back to Field Notes!


February 1, 2025

Earlier this week, friends Mari, Gaymond, and I joined the late-January Over-the-Hills Gang hike at Point Pinole Regional Shoreline, lead by Anthony Fisher. This is one of my favorite hikes, since it is fairly flat with wide trails that facilitate ambling and visiting with fellow hikers. Point Pinole has an interesting history (fishing villages; ranches and farms; and 100 years of gunpowder and dynamite production), and location (it juts out into San Pablo Bay for sweeping maritime views). It is part of the ancestorial home of the Huchiun-Aguasto speaking Ohlone people.


Mount Tamalpais through the morning fog

Adolescent bald eagle and raven

Cookie break at the half-way point

San Pablo Bay ferry crossing


The morning started out foggy, and then burned off to full sun. About 40 of us from all over the Bay Area strolled through the park, looking for wildlife, observing birds (an adolescent bald eagle that was being heckled by ravens was especially interesting), and watching the ferries cross the bay. The pace and company was excellent and Anthony brought a high-power scope for viewing wildlife, and ginger and lemon flavored cookies for the half-way-point snack. Mari, Gaymond, and I finished our outing at Richmond Kebab & Gyros for lunch and great conversation. Search the East Bay Regional Park District website to learn more about upcoming Over-the-Hills Gang hikes.


Intrepid hikers (photo by Gaymond)


February 3, 2025

Bird Buddy identified this avian visitor as a California Towhee, but it identified the same bird as a Scaly-breasted Mumia and a Bewick's Wren in other shots. I find Little Brown Birds (LBBs) to be very difficult to identify, and maybe Bird Buddy does too. They seem to be testing out a new AI option to help with identification, so maybe there are some kinks to work out!


California Towhee


February 6, 2025

Our family shared these cherry tomatoes, grown on a self-seeded plant and harvested in February. The consistency was good and the flavor was bright (but without the sweetness that develops in the summer sun). Still pretty amazing to harvest tomatoes from the yard in the dead of winter, with a few more ripening on the vine to enjoy in the future!


Cherry tomatoes harvested in February

 

February 9, 2025

We love watching all the winter visitors that stop by the Bird Buddy feeder. Here are a few snapshots from the camera (roughly clockwise, starting at the top): Red Finches (female and male); Mourning Dove, Oak Titmouse; Golden Warbler (?); Black-eyed Junco; and California Towhee (from the backend). Click on the photo to enlarge.


Winter birds at the Bird Buddy feeder


February 12, 2025

Mari and I joined the Over-the-Hills Gang hike to Wildcat Canyon Regional Park, lead by Anthony Fisher. The weather forecast indicated that a large weather system was moving into the Bay Area, bringing rain later in the day. We decided to join the hike despite fog and cold temperatures. The park is quite hilly and steep in places, with some fantastic views if you follow one of the trails up the hill (I hiked up one of those trails with Leslie in 2018; see Wildcat Canyon Regional Park). The land is part of the ancestorial home of the Huchiun-Karkin speaking Ohlone people.


Hiking the fire road at Wildcat Canyon

Look at that glorious oak - with room to spread to its potential

Lady Bug hitches a ride with Sandy

Intrepid hikers


The fire road grade is very manageable for the 55+ crowd, the surrounding hills are still green from winter rains, and mushrooms and slime molds abound! We could see cattle grazing high on the hills, but didn't encounter any on the fire road. The pace and company was excellent and Anthony brought lemon/almond cream cookies and Fig Newtons for the half-way-point snack (always a highpoint). Search the East Bay Regional Park District website to learn more about upcoming Over-the-Hills Gang hikes.


February 15, 2025

We saw so many mushrooms and slime modes on our hike at Wildcat Canyon Regional Park! Here are a few snapshots, identified by a phone app that uses iNaturalist and other internet resources. Roughly clockwise, starting at the top): Fluted Black Elfin Saddle (Helvella lacunosa); Black Slime Mold (possibly Annulohypoxylon multiforme) - growing on a log; Black Slime Mold - closeup; Golden Ear or Jelly Fungus (Tremella mesenterica);  Dark Honey Fungus (Armillaria ostoyae); Felted Pinkgill (Entoloma roseum); and The Deceiver or Waxy Laccaria (Laccaria laccata).


Mushrooms and slime molds in Wildcat Canyon Regional Park

Another good resource for identifying mushrooms: Higher Fungi of the San Francisco Bay Area.


February 19, 2025

I participated in the Great Backyard Bird Count last weekend. I've participated in the yearly event for the last several years. Below is the list I compiled during my late afternoon walk up by the reservoir, near the redwood and oak grove. I uploaded the list using the eBird mobile app. Many of these species frequent our yard, hummingbird feeder, and Bird Buddy feeder. Good to know they have plenty of other food sources!


Bird sightings (or recorded) while walking in the neighborhood


February 27, 2025

I'm sad to report that our beloved Dakota the Husky has departed this life for the Happy Hunting Grounds, after a brief illness that came on suddenly. Dakota loved treats, taking walks, and a good belly rub. He went wild for anything cheese, butter, or sour cream; and for pork chops and chicken. He loved digging in the garden, eating dirt, resting in a pool of sunlight, and pondering the oak canopy above. He liked lounging in the living room while listening to cool jazz or light country. He was a Good Boy, who was well known by dogs and their walkers in the neighborhood. 


Dakota the Husky

Dakota had been abandoned on the streets in Qatar, and ended up in Seattle, WA as a rescue dog. Our son adopted him in 2017 and gave him a wonderful home and life. After Mako departed in 2024 (see Field Notes for May, the May 17th entry), Dakota evolved into the new Alpha. He became more assertive and confident and territorial, keeping his pack safe, all while retaining his gentle nature. I'll miss taking long slow walks with Dakota as he sniffed and investigated everything, seeing him gallop to the dinner table with gusto and enthusiasm, scratching his soft ears and ruff, and talking Husky with him. We will miss his sweet presence in our lives, and keep him close in our hearts.



Wednesday, February 12, 2025

Dye Project: Preparing your Fabric (Scour, Mordant, Brighten or Sadden)

I like to have a batch of prepared cotton fabric on hand, so that I am ready to dye when I come across an interesting dye source. The process involves scouring the fabric to remove impurities, mordanting fabric so the dye bonds with it, and brightening the fabric to intensify color and improve staying power. (You could sadden the fabric instead to subdue the color).

I've covered all these processes in previous posts, but am summarizing the basic steps here. You can follow the links to the original posts for details. These are my standard processes, but I deviate frequently to try new things! 

These instructions are for plant-based fabrics, typically in one pound batches. For safety:

  • Wear a face mask when measuring and working with powders, so you don't inhale small particles.
  • Wear gloves when working with soda ash, which is caustic!
  • Work outside or in a well ventilated space.
  • Do not use your dye pots, buckets, or utensils for food preparation.


Prepared fabric - hanging to dry


Scouring (Soaking Method, Textile Detergent + Soda Ash)

Purpose: Scour fabric to remove impurities that may compromise dye results. These instructions are for the soaking method, which is to soak the fabric overnight in boiling water and scouring agents. Use textile detergent (such as Synthrapol or Professional Textile Detergent) and soda ash for the scouring agents.

The basic process for this step:

  1. Prewash the fabric in the washing machine, using textile detergent. 
  2. Soak the fabric overnight in boiled water and scouring agents. 
  3. Rinse the fabric in cold water, then wash in the washing machine.

For scouring a pound of fabric:

  • 1 teaspoon textile detergent 
  • 4 teaspoons soda ash (caustic, so use gloves)


Scouring - the brown indicates impurities are being removed from the fiber


Scour the fabric:

  1. Pre-wash the fabric in the washing machine using 1 teaspoon of textile detergent. You can hang to dry and use later, or use the damp fabric in the next steps.
  2. In a large bucket, add textile detergent and soda ash to three gallons of boiling water and stir to mix.
  3. Add fabric to the bucket and soak overnight. Stir periodically to rotate the fabric. After about half an hour, the water starts turning brown with impurities.
  4. The next day, rinse the fabric in cold water, and squeeze out excess water. Wash the fabric in the washing machine (cold water, no detergent). Optionally add an extra rinse cycle.
  5. At this point you can immerse the wet fabric into your mordant, brightener, or dye bath; or you can air-dry the fabric and store it until needed. Label it so you know how it was scoured. 

Details: Scouring Fabric (Soaking Method)


Mordanting (Oak Gall Extract)

Purpose: Mordants help bind dye to fiber and improve color fastness. I like to use ground oak gallnut extract as a mordant for cotton fabric. Gallnut is a clear tannin and made from ground oak galls. The mordant works best if the tannin bath temperature does not exceed 180 degrees F (or 82 degrees C). You can skip this process if the dye material is rich in tannins, such as walnut, onion skins, indigo, and rhubarb. 

The basic process for this step:

  1. Simmer the gallnut in water.
  2. Add fabric and soak.
  3. Rinse the fabric in cold water.

Maiwa recommends the following Weight of Fabric % for gallnut:

  • 12% WOF for Gallnut powder
  • 6-8% WOF for Gallnut Extract

For just over a pound of fabric, use:

  • 3 tablespoons powdered oak gall extract
  • 2-4 gallons of water


Mordanting - soaking the pre-washed and scoured fabric in oak gall extract


Mordant the scoured fabric:

  1. (Optional) Presoak the scoured fabric in water for about 30 minutes, if it is not already wet. This helps ensure even distribution of the tannin solution.
  2. Stir the gallnut extract into a pot of water to dissolve.
  3. Bring the tannin solution to a simmer and then simmer for 30-60 minutes, making sure to not exceed 180 degrees F (or 82 degrees C).
  4. Remove the tannin pot from the heat and let cool.
  5. Add the scoured fabric to the tannin pot.
  6. Steep the fabric in the tannin solution for 8-24 hours.
  7. The next day, rinse the fabric thoroughly in cold water, and squeeze out excess water. Wash the fabric in the washing machine (cold water, no detergent). Optionally add an extra rinse cycle.
  8. At this point, you can immerse the wet fabric into your brightener or dye bath, or you can air-dry the fabric and store until needed. Label it so you know how it was scoured and mordanted.

Details: Mordanting Fabric (Oak Gall Extract)


Brightening (Alum + Soda Ash)

Purpose: Use a combination of alum and soda ash to mordant and brighten fabric. Even if the fabric was previously mordanted with oak gallnut, you may want to mordant fabric multiple times in different ways to intensify the color or improve colorfastness.

For this technique, you do not need to “cook” the fiber. You can start with hot tap water (between 120-and-140 degrees Fahrenheit, or 48-and-60 degrees Celsius), and let it cool naturally. It is not necessary to reheat the bath to maintain temperature.

The basic process for this step:

  1. Mix alum and soda ash in hot water. 
  2. Add fabric and soak. 
  3. Rinse and air dry the fabric 

Maiwa recommends the following Weight of Fabric % for the brightener:

  • 15% WOF for Alum
  • 2% WOF for Soda Ash

For just over a pound of fabric, use:

  • 1/4 cup of Alum (67.2 grams)
  • 1 3/4 teaspoons Soda Ash (8.96 grams)
  • 2-4 gallons of water (I typically use about 3 gallons)


Brightening - soak the scoured and mordanted fabric in
alum and soda ash for a second mordant.
Saddening - you could soak the fabric in
iron, or ferrous sulfate instead.


Brighten the scoured and mordanted fabric:

  1. (Optional) Presoak the scoured and mordanted fabric for about 30 minutes, if it is not already wet. This helps ensure even distribution of the brightening solution.
  2. Add the fabric to a bucket or pot. 
  3. Dissolve alum in hot water and add to the pot. 
  4. Dissolve washing soda in hot water and add to the pot. 
  5. Fill the pot with enough hot tap water to cover the fiber. (If you are curious, you can check the temperature with the thermometer). Stir to mix.
  6. Steep the fabric in the brightening solution for 1-2 hours, or overnight. Optionally you can cover the pot so that it stays warm longer. After soaking, you can: rinse and re-mordant, for example, at 10% alum; rinse and dye; or air dry to dye later. 
  7. Squeeze out excess liquid. Soda ash is caustic so wear rubber gloves. 
  8. Wash and rinse fabric thoroughly in the washing machine (cold water, no detergent), and hang to dry.
  9. Store fabric until you are ready to dye. According to one source, the alum can weaken the fiber, so it is best to use the fabric within a month to prevent this. Label the fabric so you know how it was scoured, mordanted, and brightened.

Details: Brightening Fabric (Alum + Soda Ash)


Saddening (Iron, or Ferrous Sulfate)

Purpose: Use iron sulfate to mordant and sadden, or darken, fabric. Even if the fabric was previously mordanted with oak gallnut, you may want to mordant fabric multiple times in different ways to modify the color. I don't have any experience using ferrous sulfate to mordant prepared fabric, but have experience using it to change the color of dyed fabric. I am including steps for mordanting with iron here for future use.

Botanical Colors recommends maintaining water at 130 degrees Fahrenheit (or 55 degrees Celsius) for the iron bath. For my solar dyeing experiments, I used tepid water with no heating.

The basic process for this step:

  1. Presoak the scoured and mordanted fabric. 
  2. Mix ferrous sulfate with water and add fabric.
  3. Bring to temperature and then soak. 
  4. Rinse and air dry the fabric 

Maiwa recommends the following Weight of Fabric % to sadden the dye bath:

  • 2-4% WOF for ferrous sulfate (wear a mask when working with powders)

For just over a pound of fabric, use:

  • 1-2 teaspoon of ferrous sulfate (9.08-18.16 grams)
  • 2-4 gallons of water (I typically use about 3 gallons)

Sadden the scoured and mordanted fabric:

  1. Dissolve ferrous sulfate in a cup of water and add to the dye pot. 
  2. Add the fabric to the pot. 
  3. Fill the pot with enough water to cover the fabric. Stir to mix.
  4. Heat the dye bath to 130 degrees Fahrenheit (or 55 degrees Celsius), stirring often. Hold the temperature for 30 minutes.
  5. Remove the dye pot from the heat and let cool.
  6. Squeeze out excess liquid. 
  7. Wash and rinse thoroughly in the washing machine (cold water, no detergent), and hang to dry.
  8. Store fabric until you are ready to dye. Label it so you know how it was scoured, mordanted, and saddened. You can also save the iron bath, and use it to shift fabric color after you have dyed it.

Details:


Ready to Dye

Once you finish these processes, you are ready to dye. Having a stash of prepared fabric is like having money in the bank that is ready to fund of your creative process!


Prepared fabric that is labeled and ready to dye!


Wednesday, February 5, 2025

Ethnobotany: Tlingit's and Dyeing with Plants

Our theme this year is "Ethnobotany and Dyeing with Plants", with the plan to learn more about how several indigenous people groups use plants and natural materials to dye fabric or objects. To contain the scope, the research will be a quick survey of information, rather than a deep investigation. Our first group is the Tlingit people from Southeast Alaska. I was born and raised in Juneau, Alaska, and have an affinity for the culture and art of the Tlingit people. I have been privileged to view their dances, story telling, totems, and art in person, and would like to learn more about their use of plants for dyeing.

The Tlingit people live in the Northwest Interior of British Columbia, Canada, and southern Yukon Territory, as well as Southeast Alaska. The two main lineages or moieties are the clans of the Raven and of the Eagle/Wolf. Clan allegiance is governed through a matrilineal system. The parents are required to be from different clans and be opposite moieties. Children are born to the mother's clan and gain their status within her family. Children are born from the father, but he has a lesser role in their rearing than does the mother's brothers.


Ceremonial Robes

Woven robes and aprons play an important role in Tlingit life. They are woven of wool and cedar bark thread, and dyed with native plants or materials. The Chilkat and Ravenstail robes are reserved for sacred ceremonies, where dancers wear them to display the crests of their clans. The Haines Sheldon Museum webpage, "Chilkat Blanket",  provides additional historical and cultural information.


Chilkat weaving pattern (Naaxein sacred robe - a diving whale
with head down and tail up, is featured in the center panel)
Photographed at the Alaska State Museum.

Mountain goat hair and yarn, cedar bark, and dyed yarns for Chilkat blanket weaving

Ravenstail weaving pattern (a traditional form of geometric
weaving-style practiced by Northwest Coast Peoples)

Weaving

Last year we watched Tana Bana Wisdom of the Loom by Maiwa Productions to learn more about weaving techniques in Africa, Laos, Indonesia, and India. See Winter Movie 2024: Wisdom of the Loom. We learned about warp (the long vertical threads) and weft, or woof, (the horizontal selvage-to-selvage threads), and about some weaving variations that add texture and design to the fabric.

From my research into Tlingit Chilkat weaving, I learned that the vertical warp is spun from threads of wool and cedar bark, and is never dyed. Only the horizontal weft threads and the braids or tassels are dyed. Ravenstail weavings do not include bark.

Lily Hope's demonstration videos are so informative, about how the cedar bark thread is prepared, how the wool and cedar bark threads are thigh-spun, and how the weft yarn is dyed. See "Learn More" below for links.


Dye Sources

Original dye sources included plants and materials, such as mud, iron, and copper. Synthetic dyes have also been used over the last 150 years, and dyers have tried unusual sources to produce dyes, such as using Hershey bar wrappers or crepe paper to produce brown. (From my own experience, it is not surprising that Tlingit dyers would be curious, resourceful, and innovative in finding new dye sources)! 

There is also a great interest in researching original, historical dye sources. The Alaska State Museums, Archives & Museums webpage, "A Network or Relationships" (curated by Ellen Carrlee) provides an excellent summary of dye sources used for whites/undyed, black/browns, yellows, and blue/greens. Many of the dye sources are rich with tannins, such as wood, bark, and wolf moss, so mordants are not needed but can be used.

For my own quick reference, the following table provides a summary of some of these dye sources with notes for any additional information.


Tlingit Dye Sources - Southeast Alaska

Color Dye Source Notes
Red Dyes Alder bark Alder bark mixed with cedar bark also yields red
Alder wood Blond wood is desired, but you can mix blond wood and the outer bark.
Sea-urchin juice
Yellow Dyes Cedar bark
Lichen
Oregon grape root
Wolf moss Wolf moss does not grow in the Tongass (on the coast), so was traded from drier regions (inland). It is easy to dry and store, and acts as a natural pesticide. Toxic, especially if cooked with human urine (which speeds up dye extraction).
Blue Dyes Copper, or synthetic dyes Ammonia and copper produce blue. Copper and urine produce greenish-blue. Ancient blues may have been produced from chocolate lilies or a local mushroom called the bleeding tooth fungus.
Salal berries Produces a dark blue dye.
Brown Dyes Cedar bark When boiled with wool
Western hemlock bark The blond inner bark is packed with tannins that produce a deep reddish brown when applied to wool. A solution of copper or iron transforms it to black.
Urine When boiled with wool
Black Dyes Charcoal
Cedar bark When mixed with metals, like iron or copper, produces a black color that doesn't fade 
Hemlock bark Long simmer plus long soak time results in a dark brown that is almost black
Iron material When soaked with hemlock bark or cherry bark
Sulfur-spring mud
Gray Dye Cedar bark When mixed with iron

Note that nettles are used to dye basket grass green, and blueberries to dye grass a purple/blue (although the color fades quickly).


Summary

That concludes our brief ethnobotany tour of dye sources used to dye wool for the beautiful and sacred Tlingit ceremonial robes and aprons. There is more to learn, and I hope to gather some of the dye sources on my next trip to Southeast Alaska, so I can try dyeing with them myself.


Learn More

  • Tlingit clans (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tlingit_clans). Wikipedia. The Tlingit people live in Southeast Alaska, the Northwest Interior of British Columbia, Canada, and southern Yukon Territory. Details about the two main lineages or moieties, and their clans are described.  (Website)

  • The Spirit Wraps Around You: Northern Northwest Coast Native Textiles (https://lam.alaska.gov/sway). Alaska State Museums, Archives & Museums. The exhibit traces the history of the sacred textiles known today as “Ravenstail” and “Chilkat” robes. Two dozen robes carry the story of Native weaving among the Tsimshian, Haida, and Tlingit of Alaska and British Columbia, representing both ancient and modern ceremonial robes made by Alaska Natives and First Nations weavers. The robes are reserved for sacred ceremonies, where dancers wear them to display the crests of their clans. See the online exhibit. (Website)
  • Chilkat Dye Research: A Network of Relationships (https://lam.alaska.gov/chilkat-dye-research/). Alaska State Museums, Archives & Museums, by Conservator, Ellen Carrlee. Chilkat weavers combine wool, bark, and dye with cultural knowledge to create textile regalia within a network of relationships (families, clans, ancestors, and trade partners as well as animals, plants, and the land). Vertical Chilkat warp is a balance of wool and cedar bark spun together; only the horizontal  weft and braids are dyed. Yarn and dye sources are described. (Website)
  • Chilkat Dye Research: Chilkat Dye Working Group (https://lam.alaska.gov/chilkat-dye-research/chilkat-dye-working-group). Alaska State Museums, Archives & Museums. A collaborative group that studies both new and historic materials through hands-on activities and open-ended conversations. Dye analysis is performed at Portland State University with funding from the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation. (Website)

  • Chilkat Weaving Prep: Boiling Cedar Bark with Lily Hope (https://youtu.be/U3V00h4ggf0). Sealaska Heritage Institute, 2021. Lily Hope prepares cedar bark thread. (Video)

  • Chilkat Weaving Prep: Spinning Warp with Lily Hope (https://youtu.be/1-anEXR5qvw). Sealaska Heritage Institute, 2021. Lily Hope thigh-spins a warp thread with wool and cedar bark. (Video)

  • Chilkat Weaving Prep: Dyeing Weft with Hemlock Bark with Lily Hope (https://youtu.be/pJjT1v_OcY0). Sealaska Heritage Institute, 2021. Lily Hope dyes wool weft with hemlock bark. (Video)
  • Chilkat Weaving Prep: Dyeing Weft with Copper with Lily Hope (https://youtu.be/1Kg9rpNGrco). Sealaska Heritage Institute, 2021. Lily Hope dyes wool weft with copper, using alum and ammonia. (Video)
  • Chilkat Weaving Prep: Dyeing Weft with Wolf Moss with Lily Hope (https://youtu.be/52Kr3pBx6QE). Sealaska Heritage Institute, 2021. Lily Hope dyes wool weft with wolf moss. (Video)

  • Chilkat Dancing-of-the-Robes Ceremony with Lily Hope (https://youtu.be/SoReBAi5fVQ). Sealaska Heritage Institute, live-streamed on Feb 1, 2023. Chilkat weaving and a dancing-of-the-robes ceremony. (Video)

  • Revision Alaska: Weaving our Identity (https://youtu.be/YUA2j6f7L9E). KTOO 360TV, produced by Paige Sparks in 2023. Indigenous weavers, chemists and Alaska State Museum curators collaborate to research historic and new yarn dyeing techniques. (Video)

Wednesday, January 29, 2025

Winter Movie 2025: Eye of the Needle

It's that dark time of year again, where the sun sets early and the temperature can be quite cold, especially at night. This year, we've had several weeks of beautiful weather and little rain (worrisome for the dry summer and fall seasons ahead). The sun is welcome but not very warm, so inside projects and activities still have greater appeal. Over the years, one of those indoor activities has been to watch winter movies, typically with plants as the movie stars (we've seen a whole range of movies that fit that criteria). Last year we watched the documentary Tana Bana Wisdom of the Loom, by Maiwa Productions. 

This winter we are watching the documentary Through the Eye of a Needle: Stories from an Indian Desert, also by Maiwa Productions. A login is required (create a free account), and then scroll to the bottom of Free Lessons & Documentaries). This documentary focuses on embroidery and its use to embellish fabric clothing and objects. It is also a success story about an embroidery collective in India, which has benefited women and their communities economically, and has distributed their legacy designs and skills to the world. 



The documentary introduces the Kutch desert in Western India, which is a dry, treeless area where nomadic tribes live and to which people have migrated due to political unrest and natural disasters. Despite the desolate area and harsh conditions, the tribal groups have a rich culture and embroidery is one of their art forms. Embroidered pieces are used as clothing, dowry pieces, gifts to kings, and a type of insurance policy that can be sold in times of hardship. Many of the embroidery artisans are members of the Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan co-operative (KMVS), which is a rural development project designed to connect tribal communities. The tribes work together and collectively set standards of quality, maintain traditions, ensure quality, provide business training, and build confidence in the artisans.  Members vote on the direction the group takes, and share in the profits.

The documentary was made between 2002-2003 and used as part of a museum exhibit at the Vancouver Museum along with beautiful examples of traditional and modern embroidery. I was especially interested to see the intricate embroidery templates used to convey the designs, and the beautiful embroidered pieces produced from the designs. Thanks to KMVS, the artisans produce high-quality results, are encouraged to produce indigenous designs, and are taken seriously and compensated fairly. Additionally, artisans are able to work from home, helping to ensure income despite external hardships, and to pass knowledge to the next generation. KMVS is a testament to the collective power of co-operatives to support artisans and their communities.

Wednesday, January 22, 2025

Field Notes for January 2025

 Welcome back to year two of Field Notes!


January 1, 2025

Happy New Year! I see this view of San Francisco on my daily walk up the hill, and it reminds me to raise up my eyes periodically to see the bigger picture. It's easy to get caught up in the here-and-now (which is important), but good to pull back from the fray and look for context and meaning.


A new year, and a new view toward the future!


January 3, 2025

My sister spent Christmas with our family in Southeast Alaska, and sent this picture of the Chilkat Range taken from the front porch of our folk's house. The sun and shadow reveal the Chilkat mountains in all their glory! This shot was taken about 12:30 pm local time and the foreground is already in shadow from Douglas Island. I took the same shot from the porch in spring, summer and fall during my recent trip to Alaska (see Three Seasons of Sunsets in Juneau, Alaska). It's nice to have winter now represented, even though it is not technically a sunset. However, the sun sets early in Alaska this time of year, so it soon will be!


Winter not-quite sunset in Juneau, Alaska
(photo by Marianne Van Kessel)


January 6, 2025

"Who-who" is new in the neighborhood? According to the Merlin Bird ID app, it is a great horned owl. I've been hearing its characteristic call on my daily late-afternoon walk, up by the reservoir near the redwood and eucalyptus trees. I haven't seen the bird yet, but its deep call reverberates through the grove of trees. I wonder if it is looking for a new home, has moved into the neighborhood, or is just passing through!


Great horned owl in the neighborhood!


January 9, 2025

It's mushroom season here in the Bay Area. After all the rain in November and December, shrooms are popping up all over the yard. I'm using the iNaturalist app on my phone to identify them, but the results are not definitive. Some appear to be edible, but I'm not planning to harvest any of them to eat. Harvesting them to dry for a future dye project is another matter, especially the orange peel fungus!

 

Clockwise: Boletes spp.
Possibly Poplar Field cap 
Possibly another Boletes
Orange peel fungus (Aleuria aurantia


January 12, 2025

I'm enjoying the morning sun on this flower bulb collection from my folks in Alaska. Bulbs are a winter favorite because you can force many of them to bloom indoors, out of season. This collection from White Flower Farm includes Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths and Muscari. I'm looking forward to the blossoms, but in the meantime I'm enjoying the fresh green foliage in the winter sun. Thank you, Mom and Dad!


Spring Panache Bulb Garden - a bit of Spring in Winter!


January 15, 2025

I joined another Over-the-Hills Gang group hike in the Reinhardt Redwood Regional Park. The weather was beautiful - cool and crisp, but warm in the sun. Mari (retired colleague and friend) and Josephine and Carol  (friends of Mari, and new friends for me) and I joined the January hike, lead by Anthony Fisher. We had the best time hiking, learning about the hibernating Lady Bugs, and seeing mushrooms, with a group of about 25 walkers. The pace and company was excellent (and Anthony brought ginger and lemon flavored cookies)! Check the website to learn more about upcoming events at Reinhard Redwood.


Hibernating lady bugs in Reinhardt Redwood Regional Park

Clockwise, possibly: Spectacular Rustgill (Gymnopilus junonius)
Hare's foot inkcap (Coprinus lagopus)
Candlesnuff fungus (Xylaria hypoxylon)
Questionable Stropharia (Stropharia ambigua)
Redwood rooter (Caulorhiza umbonata)


January 18, 2025

While hunkered down in the cool, dark, winter months, it is a good opportunity to try some indoor projects. I saw a post about growing green onions from grocery store onion bulbs. Looks interesting, so I'm giving it a try!


Growing green onions from grocery store onion bulbs


January 20, 2025

I finally saw the great horned owl! It was high in a eucalyptus tree up by the reservoir. A small crowd of dog walkers had paused to watch him (we've all been hearing the "Who-who" call over the last few weeks). Dakota the Husky waited patiently as I snapped a picture and tried out my "who-who" bird call. The owl was really high up in the tree, so it is difficult to see details.


Great horned owl - high in a tree around sunset


January 22, 2025

Our Bird Buddy feeder has been a very popular place this time of year. We get many of our local visitors, such as oak titmouse, dark-eyed junco,  and red house finch (male and female), but I was surprised to see this mourning dove in the feeder! A group of five or six mourning doves typically forages together on the ground below the feeder. Possibly not enough seed had fallen to the ground, so one of them flew up to spread some seed. (I have seen some species select the seeds they like and shove the unwanted seeds over the side)!


Mourning dove in the bird feeder


January 29, 2025

January has been so beautiful - cold, clear, and sunny on most days. Thankfully rain is forecast over the weekend (we need it to combat the dry season ahead). I've been enjoying long walks with my husband and Dakota the Husky, hikes with the Over-the-Hills Gang, and inside activities like books, puzzles, movies and trying new recipes. I've been harvesting green onions from my kitchen window sill for salads. And, I have been waiting for a crop of cherry tomatoes to ripen on a self-seeded tomato plant in the front planter - IN JANUARY!


Clockwise: the desktop bulb garden from Mom and Dad brings so much joy
Perpetual green onion farm on the window sill, from grocery store onion bulbs
Self-seeded cherry tomatoes are ripening in January
A hearty chicken and "wet noodle" dumplings stew cooked by our son (yum!)
Idyll Scandinavia puzzle (Ravensburger)


Wednesday, January 15, 2025

Winter Outing

After all the fun of the holidays, it's time to get "back" in shape. What could be better than taking a long walk on a sunny day in an interesting park that is filled with trees, shrubs, and tombstones? On this January day, we're going back to the Mountain View Cemetery in Oakland. The cemetery is a beautiful place that has a long history and fantastic views of the Bay Area.


Brotherly Love

Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks


There is always something new to discover at the cemetery. On this day we came across a magnificent bronze elk statue perched on top of a tumulus in Plot 32. The site is an "Elks' Rest" burial place for deceased lodge members (similar sites are located around the country). The monument was established by Lodge #171, and unveiled and dedicated in 1896 (see Where Elks May Sleep in Peace).


View towards Millionaire Road


Tombstones are always fascinating, for both their styles and the stories they tell about the deceased. This gravestone for William H. Lessels caught my eye. It looks like it was broken at some point, and then repaired. The tombstone is a little difficult to read in places, but it looks like Lessels was a midshipman of a British Duke class ship, who died August 21, 1876 at the age of 18. He drowned near Sunderland, England and the officers and crew of his ship paid tribute to their deceased colleague.

I did a quick internet search of the Lessels family and found Brief Life History of Allen Henderson (Lessels). William Henry Lessels is listed as the second child (1858-1876) of Allan and Jane Lessels. However, the family seemed to be firmly settled in England and Scotland, with no mention of anyone migrating to the Bay Area. I am curious how his grave marker ended up at the Mountain View Cemetery - a family history mystery!


Tribute to William H. Lessels, midshipman


We also discovered a graffiti tribute to a deceased 21-year old (1995-2016), painted on a concrete retaining wall nearby. Two young lives in two different eras, snuffed out too early, both with friends, family, and colleagues to honor them.


Tribute to Tonio, brother


Our outing was a success - we got some exercise in a beautiful location, and made several interesting discoveries.

Wednesday, January 8, 2025

Ethnobotany and Dyeing with Plants

Our theme for Eden By The Bay this year is "Ethnobotany and Dyeing with Plants". According to an AI Overview:

Ethnobotany is the study of how people use plants in different cultures, regions, and time periods. It involves the study of the relationship between people and plants, including how plants are used for food, medicine, shelter, and more.

Since ethnobotany is such a broad topic, I plan to focus on the plants used for dyeing or decorating (part of the and more category cited above). I also plan to further narrow the focus to three specific people groups—Tlingit and Chimmesyan/Tsimshian (Alaska coast and Canada interior), Ohlone/Costanoan (Northern California), and Polynesian/Pacific Islander (Hawaii). That is still a pretty big swath, so my exploration will be at the survey level. I'm really looking forward to learning more about dye sources used by these people groups.


Dye Sources, clockwise: White Alder (photo by Mitch Barrie)
Wolf Lichen (photo by Jason Hollinger)
Blueberries
Hibiscus (photo by Tim1357)


How did I make my choices? I was born and raised in Juneau, Alaska, and have an affinity for the culture and art of the Tlingit people. I have been privileged to view their dances, story telling, totems, and art in person, and would like to learn more about their use of plants for dyeing. I'd also like to learn more about the Ohlone people, who have thrived in the Bay Area of Northern California for thousands of years, and about their use of plants for dyeing or embellishing. And finally, since Hawaii is one of our future trip destinations, I'd like to learn more about the beautiful island paradise, how it came to be populated by Polynesian seafarers thousands of years ago, and the plants they used or brought for dyeing. As always, I hope you'll join me on this quest!

Wednesday, January 1, 2025

Looking Ahead to 2025

Happy New Year! I love looking ahead to a new year. There is so much potential一possibilities for exploring, travelling, creating, and enjoying friends, family, and life. Really, any new day offers a fresh start, but a new year gets me thinking about what's important, what I don't need any more, and what I'd like to do or learn in the next 365 days. I find that to be a better approach than making a list of new year's resolutions, which are typically cast aside after a week or so!

This year my theme for Eden By the Bay is "Ethnobotany". My focus over the years has been on the plant hunters of the past who discovered plants from all over the world and looked for economic uses for them. This year I'd like to focus on plants that indigenous people were already using when they were "discovered"!


Clockwise: Hawaii's state flower - photo by Conrado
Ethnobotany and dyeing with plants
Observing local flora and fauna
Enjoying the landscape in all seasons


Looking ahead, I'm researching trip ideas for the coming years. My husband and I love to travel, and to learn about the history, flora and fauna, natural history, and gardens of our destinations. A few candidates on our radar include Hawaii, upstate New York, Four Corners Monument, and Mesa Verde National Park. We also plan on more visits to Alaska, Washington, and Oregon, as well as "long weekends" anywhere in California. Travel enriches our lives and makes us more appreciative of what we have at home! 

While that's brewing, we'll continue some of our favorite pursuits like tending and enjoying our new landscape (I'm currently learning what tasks are required for each month and season), visiting beautiful gardens and landscapes, and delving into the seasons, weather, and critters we encounter. There are books to read, movies to see, seeds to plant, floral arrangements to create, projects to accomplish, fabric to dye, and new ideas to try. At the heart of it all though, are the people, loved ones, and Huskies that travel along on that journey!