Every Christmas I like to survey a few of the spices and
flavorings that go into Christmas holiday meals, and learn about their origins
and histories. Jan-Öjvind Swahn’s book, Lore of Spices, helps frame our research. It’s been a fun project, and, after
this year’s theme of “plants on the move,” the project takes on even more meaning.
Many of the ingredients we love and associate with holiday cooking and baking,
actually originated somewhere else. This year I’m looking at some of the
flavorings used in the savory dishes we love to serve and eat this time of
year, starting with mustard!
Brassica nigra (or
black mustard) is in the Brassicaceae
family (formerly Cruciferae), which
includes mustard, cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts. Mustard adds flavor
to honey-mustard glaze on ham, deviled eggs, savory dipping sauces, and sandwiches
and hot dogs. Mustard seeds are tiny. In fact, Jesus compares the Kingdom of
God to a mustard seed in one of his parables – from its tiny form, comes a
large, life-giving plant (Mathew 13:31-32). When you grind mustard seeds into a
powder and add vinegar, you create a delicious condiment. The mustard seeds can
be finely or coarsely ground.
|
Botanical
illustration of Brassica nigra from
Koehler's Medicinal Plants.
Published before 1923 and public domain in the
United States. |
According to Swahn, mustard originated in Mediterranean
countries, and was initially regarded as a medicinal plant. In the sixth century
B.C., Pythagoras prescribed mustard as a cure for scorpion bites. Later, in the
first century, the Roman cookbook Apicius
includes mustard sauce recipes for game, sausage, and fish dishes. Mustard
reached France in the ninth century A.D., and became an important crop in
Dijon. It reached Germany and England in the twelfth century, and became widely
used in cooking throughout Europe. Mustard plasters have also been used to
treat respiratory ailments and toothaches (ouch).
Mustard plants are annual herbs. They are dicots, erect,
tall to 6 feet high, many-branched, and glaucous. Leaves are small, pinnate, dentate,
petioled, and often covered with short hairs. They have many one inch, yellow
flowers, with four petals configured in many short racemes. Fruit is a silique,
pressed close to the rachis, with multiple seeds in a chamber. The seeds are
small, dark, and without aroma until crushed.