Time for more solar dyeing, this time using coreopsis and marigold flowers and alum. We have some solar dyeing experience of our own by now (see Solar Dyeing with Calendula and Solar Dyeing with Avocado), but have been influenced by artist Caitlin Ffrench. Solar dyeing fits in nicely with our theme of "homesteading in the city", where we try to be resourceful, use what we have, and repurpose items as we can.
Recall that we grew coreopsis (Coreopsis x hybrida) and marigold (Tagetes signata) from seeds last year, and enjoyed the flowers all summer and into fall. I harvested the flowers as they hit their prime, dried them on our recycled trays, and then stored the dried petals in paper bags until ready to dye.
Coreopsis (Coreopsis x hybrida)
Marigold (Tagetes signata)
The Weight of Fabric (WOF) for each batch was .9 ounces (or 26 grams) for two cotton handkerchiefs. I reused fabric that was dyed last year with cherry and French Broom, so this is an exercise in overdyeing, as well as solar dyeing. The fabric was originally scoured and mordanted, using a gallnut mordant, and treated in a bath of 15% WOF alum and 2% soda ash as a brightener.
Prepared fabric (scoured, mordanted in gallnut, and soaked in alum and soda ash)
The flower crop yield was small - .4 ounces (11 grams) of dried coreopsis flowers (WOF% is 42%) and .5 ounces (13 grams) of dried marigold flowers (WOF% is 50%). Most dyers recommend using equal weight flowers or leaves to fabric, so we are about half that. We may not get much color. Still, we are overdyeing, so we may be surprised with the results. That is part of the adventure of dyeing with plants!
Dried marigold flowers
Tooling up for solar dyeing
Supplies for dyeing include:
Large jars (with room for some movement)
A quart of water (+ more as needed)
Prepared cotton fabric (scoured, gallnut mordant, and alum brightener)
Alum (2-3 teaspoons per 100 grams of fabric)
NOTE: For safety, use a face mask and rubber gloves.
Solar Dyeing
First, presoak the prepared fabric for at least 30 minutes or overnight. This helps ensure the fabric absorbs as much dye as possible, and as evenly as possible. Squeeze out excess water. Pour warm water into each jar, until about a third full. Stir in the alum. I’m using 1 teaspoon alum for each jar, for 26 grams of fabric in each). Stir until dissolved. Let the water cool and the alum dissolve thoroughly.
Soak fabric to prepare for dyeing, and then squeeze out water
Layer the fabric and flowers in each jar. First, sprinkle in a few flower petals. Then add the first piece of fabric. Add more plant material. Add the second piece of fabric. Top with the rest of the plant material. With the stir stick, evenly distribute petals around the sides of the jar. Add water to cover. Let it settle, and then top it off with water. Close the lid, and label each jar.
Layer plant material and fiber in jars, and fill with alum water
Leave the jars in a sunny spot, inside or out. You start to see the color appear after several hours. Check the fabric color daily, and agitate the jar slightly to distribute the dye. I enjoyed my morning inspection of the jars, with a cup of coffee. I let the fabric soak for three weeks, but you can try less time or more. Remove the fabric from the jar and squeeze out excess liquid.
After three weeks of solar dyeing
Rinse the fabric in cool water until the water runs clear. Some petals and seeds clung to the fabric, which is rather charming. Run the fabric through the washing machines' rinse and spin cycles, using cold water. Let the fabric air dry. Two weeks later, wash the fabric in a pH neutral soap, like Synthrapol or Professional Textile Detergent, and hang to dry.
Squeeze out dye from fabric (some petals and seeds remain)
Rinse out marigold dye
Rinse out coreopsis dye
For the coreopsis, the resulting color is a vibrant shade of orange. For the marigold, the color is a bright shade of yellow. It's surprising how much color was produced with so few flowers! I really enjoy the slow process of solar dyeing. After the initial set up, there is not much to do but observe.
Hang to dry
Yellow marigold (left) and orange coreopsis (right)
I plan to reuse the dye baths in a second exhaust, using Ferrous sulfate instead of alum. There may not be enough dye pigment left for much color, but if anything comes of the experiment, I’ll let you know!
Learn More
Kissed by the Sun: The Art of Solar Dyeing, by Caitlin Ffrench. November 28, 2017. (Kissed by the Sun: The Art of Solar Dyeing | Spin Off (spinoffmagazine.com) https://spinoffmagazine.com/kissed-sun-art-solar-dyeing/
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