For our next adventure in dyeing, we're eco-dyeing two silk scarves with spring flowers and leaves. This is our first attempt at eco-dyeing, also called eco-printing, and our first time using protein-based fiber. The mordant-treated fabric may absorb interesting textures from the plant material, as well as color. Eco-dyeing also fits in nicely with this year's theme of "homesteading in the city".
For this project, I’ve been inspired by the techniques of two fabric artists. Laura Mead of Prairie Hollow Productions, eco-dyes with prairie grasses and flowers. Theresa Brown of The Silk Thread, eco-prints with dried leaves.
Silk scarves - scoured and mordanted
The Weight of Fabric for two silk scarves is 4.4 ounces (or 125 grams). I used the silk scarves that I purchased from Dharma Trading (see Studio Updates: New Fiber). The scarves are ready-to-dye, but I still scoured and mordanted the fabric, following instructions from Maiwa Textiles. The fabric was scoured with Orvus paste and soda ash, and mordanted with gallnut. I’ll cover that process in a separate video.
Daffodils, blue bells, a bougainvillea bract (separated), maple leaves, and ferns
For one scarf I dried daffodils from our neighbor, and collected bluebells that have naturalized in our yard. I also had a single bougainvillea bract. For the second scarf I collected young green maple leaves from a tree in our yard, and several types of ferns. Some of the ferns had marvelous spores on the underside of the leaves. For this project I’m not interested in the weight of dye material since I am transferring color and texture.
Basic supplies
Supplies for the project include:
Plastic-covered surface
Prepared silk fabric (scoured, mordanted)
Plant material
Heavy rolling pin
Clean sticks for rolling
String and heat-proof rubber bands
Heat source
Large stainless-steel pot (with room for sticks)
Water to cover the sticks
NOTE: For safety, use a face mask and rubber gloves.
Workspace ready for eco-dyeing
Set up your workspace, ideally outside. I covered the work table with a plastic yard waste bag. First, presoak the prepared silk for at least 30 minutes or overnight. This helps ensure the fabric absorbs as much dye as possible, and as evenly as possible. Squeeze out excess water.
Arrange flowers on wet silk scarf
Eco-dyeing with Spring Flowers and Leaves
Lay the first wet scarf on the work table surface, shiny side up. Arrange the plant material on half the scarf. I placed the flowers in an alternating blue and yellow pattern, with a single row of bougainvillea near the end. Fold the scarf over on itself. Use the rolling pin to press the plant material into the fabric. Roll the fabric around one of the clean sticks. Cinch the ends with rubber bands; wrap the string around the roll; and secure. This holds the plant material tightly against the silk for better color or print transfer. Set aside.
Fold the silk scarf over on itself
Use the rolling pin to press the plant material into the scarf
Roll up the scarf around a clean stick, secure the ends with rubber bands, and bind the fabric with string
Lay the second wet scarf on the plastic-covered table. Arrange the plant material on half the scarf. Here I placed the ferns and maple leaves in a pattern, keeping in mind the upper and lower surface of each plant. The lower surface of these specimens seems more interesting than the top. Fold the scarf over on itself. Again, use the rolling pin to press the plants into the fabric. Then roll the fabric around the other clean stick. Cinch the ends with rubber bands; wrap the string around the roll; and secure.
Arrange leaves and ferns on the wet fabric
Spores from the ferns in the upper left corner
Leaves from the maple tree in spring
Roll up the scarf around a clean stick and secure with rubber bands and string
Place the two sticks in the pan of water. Heat to 180 degrees Fahrenheit (or 82 degrees Celsius) over the period of an hour, and then simmer at 180 degrees for an hour. Remove the fabric sticks from the water, and let cool. Unfurl the silk scarves, carefully removing the plant debris and squeezing out excess liquid.
Heat to 180 degrees and simmer
Rinse the fabric in cool water until the water runs clear. Run the fabric through the washing machines' rinse and spin cycles, using cold water. Let the fabric air dry. Two weeks later, wash the fabric in a pH neutral soap, like Synthrapol or Professional Textile Detergent, and hang to dry.
Remove from heat and let cool
Silk scarf dyed with flowers
The Results
Looking at the flower-printed scarf, I’m surprised how much color was transferred from both the daffodils and the bluebells. The single pink bougainvillea bract didn’t even register, although there is a single line of pink dye. There is only faint flower or seed detail imprinted on the fabric. The silk scarf itself seems slightly yellow, so the daffodils may have dyed the scarf as well. We’ll see how colorfast the yellow and blue pigments are. They may fade over time.
Alternating color from daffodils and bluebells
Looking at the leaf-printed scarf, the ferns didn’t leave color, but may have prevented color from transferring, almost like a mask. There is some detail imprinted on the fabric. You can see the spore pattern, but it is not very distinct. The maple leaves show more promise. You can see quite a bit of detail from the leaves and stems. Possibly that could be accentuated even more by experimenting with mordants.
Spore and maple leaf print
The scarves are quite lovely. The fabric is a little stiff, but I’ve read about Milsoft fabric softener, which returns the softness to silk after dyeing. I had quite a time trying to iron out the wrinkles after dyeing. Professional dry cleaning might solve the problem. I really enjoyed this first eco-dying project. Now I’m eyeing more plants in the yard, and wondering what colors and effects they might produce!
Silk scarf dyed with leaves
Learn More
Laura Mead of Prairie Hollow Productions - eco-dyes with prairie grasses and flowers. https://youtu.be/wHXZg5IbzZ4
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