This year we're spending the dye season learning about and dyeing with indigo - a celebration in blue! Indigo is a historical dye that has been used for thousands of years by many cultures around the world. As we learned in A Brief History of Indigo Dye, dyeing with indigo is quite different from other dyeing techniques. One source describes it more like the art and science of making wine than extracting dye.
The dye is obtained from the leaves of the indigo plant, typically Indigo tinctoria, although other species can be used. The dye is invisible and attached to a glucose molecule. The leaves are soaked in water where they ferment, causing the glucose to split off. After soaking, the leaves are removed from the water and the indigo remains. Since indigo dye does not dissolve in water, the dye must undergo this process where it is ‘reduced’ and put into a liquid state with the oxygen removed.
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| Indigo dye comes from the leaves of (Indigo tinctoria) |
In the ‘reduced’ state the indigo dye liquid is a yellow green color, and in this form the indigo can penetrate the fibers of the fabric. When the fabric is removed from the dye vat it is initially this same yellow green color, but begins to turn blue as the oxygen in the air reacts with the indigo. As the indigo oxidizes it becomes trapped within the fibers, making the dye permanent.
Equipment and Supplies
I decided to take the easy route and use a kit for my first go at dyeing with indigo. The kit includes what I need for the dye vat. The indigo has been pre-processed, reduced, and turned into crystals that are water soluble. I’m using the Jacquard Indigo Tie Dye Kit (Natural Dye Method), available from Dharma Trading, Amazon, and other sources. Similar kits are also available. The dye vat can keep up to several weeks and dye more than 15 yards or 5 pounds of fabric, or 15 T-shirts.
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| Indigo dye kit |
The Jacquard Indigo Tie Dye Kit (Natural Dye Method) contains what you need to mix the dye vat:
- Water-soluble, pre-reduced indigo dye crystals
- Soda ash – a fixer that raises the pH level and helps fabric better absorb dye. The increased pH level activates the molecules of the fabric so that they can better absorb the dye. This results in brighter and longer-lasting colors.
- Sodium hydrosulfite – a reducing agent that converts indigo pigment into a water-soluble form
- Instruction manuals
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| Supplies for the dye vat include indigo crystals, soda ash, and sodium hydrosulfite |
Some other supplies you need include:
- 5-gallon bucket with a sealable lid
- 36-inch-long paddle for stirring
- Latex gloves (keep your fingers from turning blue)
- Drop cloths (protect your work area)
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| Drop cloths help protect the work area from being dyed blue! |
Mixing the Indigo Dye Vat
To set up the dye vat:
- Fill the 5-gallon bucket with 4 gallons warm water.
- Stir in the indigo dye crystals, soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite.
- Stir the vat, cover with a lid, and allow to settle.
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| Add warm water to the bucket |
Step 1
Fill the 5-gallon (18.93 liter) bucket with 4 gallons (15.14 liters) of warm water. I use tap water here in the San Francisco Bay Area, but use distilled or rain water if that is what you typically use for your dye projects.
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| Key ingredients for the dye vat, including indigo dye crystals, soda ash, and sodium hydrosulfite |
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| Indigo dye crystals |
Step 2
Empty the pre-reduced indigo dye crystals, soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite into the water. Stir until dissolved. Stir the vat in one direction in a circular motion to prevent introducing oxygen. Take your time.
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| Mixing the indigo dye vat |
Step 3
When dissolved, remove the paddle. To do so, slowly reverse the direction of stirring and drag the stir stick along the outer edge of the vat, and then slowly remove the paddle. Cover the vat with a lid and allow the vat to settle (at least 15 minutes to 1/2 hour, although an hour is best). The liquid becomes a yellow-green color. The seal and lid prevent the dye from oxidizing between dye sessions.
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| Cover the indigo dye vat with a sealable lid |
Ready to Dye
Now that my indigo dye vat is prepared, I’m ready to dye!
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| Indigo dye vat |
Learn More:
- “Indigo Dye Kit Instruction Manual”, by Jacquard Products.
- “Indigo Quick Start Instructions”, by Jacquard Products.
- "The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes" (use CTRL+F to find content about indigo).
- “Indigo: A World of Blue”, documentary by Maiwa Productions.
- “Indigo Workshop”, by Michel Garcia. Natural Dye Workshop II, by Studio Galli.
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