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Wednesday, October 25, 2023

Nevada to the Great Salt Lake

Experiencing grand scenery, listening to audio books, stopping at interesting places, and engaging in unexpected conversations are some of the simple pleasures of road trips. There is always something new to see, something interesting to learn, and new points of view and ideas to ponder. We recently returned from our first long road trip since 2018, travelling to Vernal Utah and Dinosaur National Monument, via Interstate 80, and stopping at Kings Beach CA, Elko NV, and Salt Lake City UT on the way and back.


Nevada in fall colors
[Note: click on a photo to see a larger image.]

I-80 across Nevada to Salt Lake City area
(Google Maps)

The drive across Nevada is long, but I love those sweeping views of the Great Basin. Long stretches of road seemed to be under perpetual construction but the off-season traffic rarely slowed. We saw about five prisons along I-80, and learned how mineral-rich Nevada is (gold, silver, copper, tungsten, and lithium to name a few). The wildlife freeway crossings are inspired. At one rest stop we read signage about the California Trail and pondered how it took wagon trains months to cross the plains, while we traveled through at 80 miles per hour. We listened to a Lawrence Block audio book as we travelled (When the Sacred Ginmill Closes).


California Trail Historic Route from a rest stop in Nevada

Wildlife freeway crossings in Nevada


Elko

We broke up the drive by stopping at Elko for the night. Elko is famous for its National Cowboy Poetry Gathering in January and a large Basque population. I recalled that we had passed through Elko years ago on the California Zephyr on a train trip from Chicago IL to Emeryville CA. We decided that The Coffee Mug is our favorite breakfast spot in Elko. Yellow rabbitbrush flowers lit up the landscape (they remind me of the yellow brittlebush flowers that we encountered in Southern California).

 

Shutters Hotel in Elko

Drifts of rabbitbrush in fall bloom

Bonneville Salt Flats

In Utah we stopped at a desolate looking rest stop on the way to Vernal, and discovered it had a wonderful view of Bonneville Salt Flats, Utah's famed "measured mile and site of world land speed record runs". Heading East, we enjoyed the nice cool breeze off the flats and a viewing tower for seeing the flats from above. Heading West, we could walk on the flats and get a better view. Many people were walking out on the salt flats. The islands out in the lake looked almost like they were floating, because the water and salt flats reflected the sky perfectly.


Bonneville Salt Flats

Elevated view of the salt flats (heading East)

The salt flats (heading West)

Walking on water!


Salt Lake City

On our way to Vernal, we stayed in downtown Salt Lake City. We arrived just as a cosplay event was breaking up so we had the fun of seeing all kinds of costumes, food trucks, and people enjoying themselves. From our 10th floor hotel room we had  a great view of downtown SLC, the lights of the city, and Maurice Abravanel Hall (the symphony). We could also see that the Temple and Temple Square were closed for renovations. We ate dinner at Spencer's Steaks & Chops - one of those red-leather-and-dark-wood steakhouses with attentive service and delicious food. The next day we ate breakfast at Soap Stone and then toured the Utah State Capital. After our sightseeing, we headed for Vernal and Dinosaur National Monument.


Sunrise over downtown Salt Lake City

Abravanel Hall (with its red glass Chihuly sculpture) 

Utah State capitol rotunda (can you see the seagulls?)

Utah State capitol building

Great Salt Lake

On our way back from Vernal, we stayed in Tooele UT on the Great Salt Lake. Once settled into our hotel, we headed over to the Great Salt Lake State Park to spend some time at the shore. A few people were swimming, others walking and enjoying the air. We had nice views of the Great Salt Lake and of an imposing smelter nearby. I walked down by the lake and took some pictures, although the lake is so large that it is difficult to capture. I remember swimming in the Great Salt Lake with my family when I was a girl, and both my parents remember swimming in the Great Salt Lake in their childhoods. We all remember the sensation of being buoyed up by the salty water.

I bought some Salt Water Taffy in the Gift Store, The taffy is made in West Jordan near Salt Lake City, and its packaging uses photos of the old Saltair Resort built in 1893. The building is now used as an entertainment venue. We visited the Black Rock Historical Site briefly but the sun was wrong for taking pictures.


The Great Salt Lake

Smelter near the Great Salt Lake State Park

Sunflowers near the Great Salt Lake

Black Rock Heritage Site

The next morning we checked out of our hotel, ate breakfast, and returned to the Great Salt Lake State Park to take pictures of the Black Rock Heritage Site in the morning light. We saw more signs about the California Trail historical route, and the nearby railroad tracks (no doubt the same tracks that the California Zephyr follows from Chicago through Salt Lake City and Elko to Emeryville in the Bay Area). We stopped to take a few pictures of  the former Saltair Resort on Sultan Road.


Black Rock Historic Site

Black Rock

Railroad tracks pass by Black Rock and the Great Salt Lake

California Trail Historic Route from the Great Salt Lake State Park in Utah

Saltair Resort, now used as an entertainment venue

After our brisk walk out to Black Rock we got back on I-80 West, and headed for Elko, NV. We started a new audio book for the return trip, Stephen King's Fairy Tale.


Saltair Resort pictured on the Salt Water Taffy packaging.

Saltair - Try to Sink

Salt air loving plants in Utah


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