Remembering Three Seasons in Alaska

I've been home from my extended trip to Southeast Alaska for a month now, and am back in the swing of things. Here in Oakland, we've had a heat wave, lots of cool, crisp fall days, a sprinkle of rain, and are now on the cusp of Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Before plunging into this busy season of the year, I'm looking back at some of my experiences from three and a half months in Juneau with my family and in my childhood home. The visit spanned the end of spring, all of summer, and the start of fall.

Pause in the rain in downtown Juneau, Alaska 

Reflections on Rain

Southeast Alaska experienced an especially rainy summer, which was continuing right into fall when I left. In my youth, rains were typically misty, interspersed with partly cloudy skies. More and more, Juneau is experiencing Atmospheric Rivers that bring hard downpours. After many years living with perpetual drought, it was wonderful to be back in the rainy climate. I enjoyed the many moods of rain, as well as the benefits, like running the tap until the water is hot enough, taking long showers, and listening to the music of rain in the night. (It was still hard to shake some of my water frugal ways - like letting a leaky faucet drip). As in my youth, when the sun comes out, Alaskans drop everything and change their plans to take advantage of it!  

The shed out back, through a heavy downpour of rain

Out and About

Mom and I took lots of outings to favorite places through all the seasons (Mendenhall Glacier, North Douglas, Thane Road, Eagle Beach and Eagle River, Amalga Harbor, Jensen-Olson Arboretum, Shrine of St. Therese, Sunshine Cove). In addition, we hiked around the Auke Lake area and drove around the UAA campus, by Chapel by the Lake, out Fritz Cove Road, and up to see new residential developments and their views.

Hiking around the Auke Lake area

View of the airport from a newer housing development

Mendenhall Wetland Refuge

Social Fun

We spent time in the Juneau Pioneer Home, visiting Dad and participating in fun events like TJ on Piano, the Alyssa Fischer Trio (including Tom Locher, the piano guy), Brock on Guitar, Bread Making and Tasting, Chair Yoga, Enchanted Forest, and Senior Day. My sister Marianne came from Bend, Oregon for a wonderful visit, and we spent time with my brother Dave (relaxing in his home, meeting his friends and family, dinners out, and attending the fun-filled Wearable Art Extravaganza). I also reconnected with childhood friends, Ulla and Annetta, after many years apart.

Fall foliage at Juneau Pioneer Home

View from Hangar on the Wharf

A sunny summer afternoon on the deck

Delicious dinner at Mar y Sol

College buddies

A gathering at Canton Asian Bistro

Downtown Juneau

We usually try to avoid visiting downtown Juneau during the busy summer months. On days with 4-5 cruise ships in town, the population soars by thousands of people, making it difficult to navigate, find parking, and do errands. But we managed several excursions into town for Cruise Ship Spotting, the Annual Food Festival & Farmers Market, and a musical performance at the Alaska State Museum. We were also able to drive through charming downtown Juneau on days when only two ships were in town.

Downtown Juneau near the end of tourist season

Tahku whale sculpture

Kootéeyaa Deiyí (Totem Pole Trail) leading to downtown Juneau

Plants & Wildlife

We experienced lots of birds, from Pine Siskins, Robins, Blue Jays, and Warblers, to Ravens, Sea Gulls, Ducks, Geese, and Eagles. I saw a bear that ambled through my parent's yard, and Mom and I spotted one that worked its way through the underbrush out the road on one of our drives. I enjoyed seeing the wildflowers during the short bloom cycle, gardens and containers with exotic plants, and the rainforest plants of Southeast Alaska.

Fresh spruce tips in Spring

Alaska daisies in Summer

Alaskan wild rosehips in Fall

Field Notes for October

Welcome back to Field Notes!

October 1, 2024

Yesterday I flew from Juneau, Alaska to Oakland, California, and the difference in weather is remarkable. Our flight to Seattle was delayed on the Juneau tarmac for several hours, due to a weather system rolling in, with heavy rains and winds. In contrast, Oakland is in the midst of a week-long heat wave. Where Juneau was cold, rainy and foggy, Oakland is hot, dry, and bright. Honestly, I love them both!

Back in Oakland, and we're having an Excessive Heat Warning!

October 3, 2024

I'm back in Oakland, California with my family, and am surviving an Excessive Heat Warning. To beat the heat, we're taking early walks with Dakota the Husky. My son has discovered some neighborhood treats, such as this brightly painted staircase that connects two streets. From the top is a spectacular view of Oakland and San Francisco; the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge; and many points in between.

Sunflower Path between Morpeth and Proctor

Vacant lot with a view on Agnes (Click on the photo to expand it,)

October 6, 2024

Even in the San Francisco Bay Area, where it may seem like we have no seasons, we have fall color. Here is an example of fall color that we spotted on our long morning walks with Dakota the Husky.

 

Fall leaves in the Bay Area

October 9, 2024

What a treat to rediscover our newly finished landscape, after being away for four months. Granted, a few plants need seasonal attention, and a few others definitely look like weeds. For the moment, I am getting reacquainted with the yard and plants in the current cycle of their lives. But soon, we'll meet with the landscaping maintenance crew to learn about the next steps.

Look at all that growth!

October 12, 2024

What an interesting plant! I found it while becoming reacquainted with our new landscape. The iNaturalist app identifies this as Bearded Flatsedge, but I don't recall that from the plant list. Click on the picture to see a closeup of those leaf blades.

Bearded Flatsedge (Cyperus squarrosus)

October 15, 2024

Just finished reading In the Shadow of a Rainbow, by Robert Franklin Leslie (W.W. Norton & Company, 1974). This true story is about Gregory Tah-Kloma (a young Chimmesyan/Tsimshian from British Columbia) and his friendship with Náhani (the strong she-wolf leader of a large pack). Trapper-Dan imperils the pack as he spreads lies about how the wolves have killed livestock and raided traps. This myth fuels an ever-increasing bounty on Náhani's head. Greg strives to protect the pack.

I started reading the book on my plane ride home, and was captivated by the story. I also enjoyed learning the Tsimshian moon names, including:

• January - Big-Sleep-Moon
• February - Moon-of-the-Fallen-Antlers
• March - Moon-of-Meltwater
• April - Moon-of-the-Flowers
• May - Moon-of-Fawns
• June - Moon-of-the-Moose-Child
• July - Moon-of-Walking-Thunder
• August - Sagamore-Council-Moon (meeting of the chiefs)
• September - Moon-of-Painted-Leaves
• October - Fallen-Leaf-Moon
• November - Moon-of-the-Storm-Chief
• December - Moon-of-the-White-Hare 

October 18, 2024

After a little more research—using the landscaper's Plant List, the iNaturalist app, and the internet—my husband and I have pulled quite a few weeds. The new garden already looks so much better without them. While working in the yard, I harvested some of the dried tassels, seed heads, and plant material to create a fall arrangement. For previous projects, see Pampas Grass, Fall Foliage Arrangements, and Fall Foliage Arrangement. I'm not very talented or experienced at it, but it is gratifying to use available material to create a fall arrangement!

Fall arrangement from the landscape

October 23, 2024

How do I like retirement? I'm just finishing my first six months of retirement (according to my research, the first year is the Vacation Phase), and so far, I don’t miss work at all (I do miss the daily interactions with colleagues, but keep in touch via phone calls and text messages). I am so grateful to have had the flexible time that retirement affords to be in Alaska for several months, and am now grateful for the time available for projects, people, and living life. Bottom line - I'm loving retirement!

More time for family and friends (photo by Chris Schuyler)

October 27, 2024

I started a new solar dyeing project, using drupes that I harvested from the Chokecherry (Prunus ilicifolia) in the lower yard. The deep purple berries ripen in the fall. Swarms of small migrating birds periodically descend on the tree and strip it of its drupes, so it an important food source for wildlife. I harvested what I needed from the tree and the ground,  and left plenty of fruit for the birds.

Solar dyeing with Chokecherries - day 1

I'm using two dish towels (WOF is 154 grams/5.4 ounces) that have been scoured, mordanted with oak gallnut extract, and brightened with alum and soda ash. I collected 660 grams (23.28 ounces, about 4 cups) of chokecherry drupes, so the WOF% is 428%. Dyers typically recommend equal weight of fabric and plant material when solar dyeing, so we're well over that. I added three teaspoons of alum and boiling water to the jar to create the dye bath, and plan to steep for two weeks. So far, I'm loving the color!

October 31, 2024 🎃

Halloween in the Hood! Skeletons abound in the neighborhood and make the afternoon walk so much fun. Here are a few for you to enjoy!

Surfer Skeleton and his playful pup

Waking up and ready for fun

Moonlight in the Garden

The new landscape was not designed with a dog in mind! The garden plan includes a natural hedge of vegetation in place of a fence, several meadows and planting areas, and an open design. Dakota the Husky arrived with our son days before construction started, during the winter rains, and too late for design changes. Since its completion in April, Dakota has experimented with the landscape to find his favorite locations.

One spot is under the camellia tree by the fence. He has cleared away the wood chips down to the bare earth, and favors this location when the temperature soars. I'm guessing the compacted dirt is cooling in the heat, and the location feels secluded and safe during an afternoon nap (and is within hearing range of the kitchen in case anyone makes a snack that should be shared).

Dakota the Husky in the moonlight (Fallen-Leaf-Moon)

Another favorite spot is under the oak tree, surrounded by Clarkia flowers and vegetation. At various times Dakota snoozes, sniffs the air, contemplates the oak tree above, and observes the comings and goings of the neighborhood. In the evening, he loves hanging out in this spot in the cool evening air. The garden was not designed with a dog in mind, but it is being adapted for Dakota the Husky!

Landscaping: Six Month Report

I'm back in the Bay Area after three and a half months in Southeast Alaska. In that time, our new landscape has changed so much! While away, I was able to monitor progress via the Bird Buddy camera and app, and periodic reports from home. Still, I wasn't prepared for the rapid growth that occurred in such a short time. In this post I'm providing a six-month report, using a shot-for-shot comparison with Landscaping: Finished.

The heuchera, grasses, ground cover, and more have taken hold

We decided to let the garden grow naturally while I was gone, instead of starting a maintenance program. The garden is quite overgrown and I'm sure some of the plants are weeds that should be pulled. We need to learn more first (but shouldn't wait too long or seed drop will plant more of them)! The landscape was designed as a wildlife garden with keystone plants for food and shelter, and I'm happy to report that birds, butterflies, bees, and squirrels seem to be loving it.

The succulent rock garden has taken off (and needs seasonal clean up)

We have a surprising number of blooms for October, even for a summer dry climate. Perhaps the little bit of extra water from drip irrigation helps extend the bloom cycle for these drought tolerant plants. Many of the grasses are sporting seed pods and tassels (a look that I like a lot). I'll need to consult our planting schedule to identify some of the plants and grasses, since they look much different from the "favorite plant" pictures that I took earlier in the season.

Juniper tree in the lower yard is thriving

The tiny grass plugs that were planted in the spring have grown well through the season. They are now tall and tawny for fall, but still growing in spindly clumps. They will continue to mature over time into larger clumps, but it is gratifying to have such growth so soon.

Path to the lower yard in full sun

The irrigation system provides some extra moisture in the yard as plants get their start. The planting area that leads to the lower yard is growing well. Some small trees and shrubs are growing, as well as plants and grasses. Once many of the plants are established, irrigation will either not be needed, or only periodically. Our current low-to-mid 90s heatwave is putting the theory to the test.

Utilitarian gate in the lower yard (seasonal clean up needed)

In the lower yard, the shrubs planted to the right of the gate have grown, but still don't fill in the gap. One needs to cultivate the long view when establishing a garden. In the meantime, the protected shady entryway is a welcome change from no gate and the dilapidated fence (we could always construct a fence if the shrub route takes too long). Fall clean up of dropped leaves will also spruce things up. In the upper yard, the lights are now surrounded by vegetation and ground cover, so don't look so stark and isolated. The low lights are welcoming without causing nighttime light pollution.

Pathway lights are now surrounded by foliage

Now that I'm back in the Bay Area, we'll be meeting with our landscaping team to discuss next steps. I'm hoping to learn more about the seasonal tasks required to maintain the plants and garden. I'd like to be able to putter around the garden knowing what I'm doing, while still hiring professionals for some of the work!

Fall Outing

When it is raining in Juneau, Alaska, Eagle Beach is the place to be. The Eagle Beach State Recreation area is 27 miles north of Juneau, and often has milder weather than elsewhere in the Juneau area. The Rec area provides firepits, trails, and restrooms, and expansive views of the sound and distant Chilkat Mountains. I've posted about Eagle Beach and Eagle River in the past (see Eagle Beach Adventure, Eagle River and the Crab Feed, and Beautiful Juneau).

Eagle Beach area, with a view across Favorite Channel

For this fall outing, Mom and I ate our lunch in the car, while soaking in the view, and then hiked across the sandy beach for a closer look. We saw lots of birds congregating close to the water's edge. Salmon spawn in the area, and are frequently snapped up for a quick meal by eagles, or trapped in pools of water when the tide goes out and eaten by birds or bears. Nothing goes to waste. We met several family groups out walking with their dogs. It was great to see dogs off leash and running, jumping, and diving into the cold salt water with abandon!

Birds congregate on Eagle Beach

Later we drove to the nearby Eagle River picnic and camping area. The Eagle River changes its course frequently, and we found a section of the bank cordoned off with a former bench precariously close to the edge. The view toward the Chilkat Mountains is spectacular.

Salt water from Favorite Channel meets fresh water from Eagle River

We walked along the Beach Access Trail that parallels Eagle River, catching glimpses of the river along the way. We saw many eagles, ravens, sea gulls and shore birds feasting and communing on the sandbars in the river. Mom and I had a great time together enjoying the views and being in nature!

Mom strides along the Beach Access Trail by Eagle River