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Wednesday, May 14, 2025

Audubon Cruise in Southeast Alaska

My brother Dave and I joined an Audubon Cruise on Berner's Bay, a fund raiser for the local Audubon Society and a chance for locals to tour Berner's Bay before tourist season kicks into high gear. It was pouring rain when we arrived at Statter Harbor, but most Alaskans are undaunted by a little rain. A pretty good crowd of us boarded the catamaran, St. Peter, and found a place to sit. We headed out of the harbor, sipping mocha coffee and eating donut holes, ready for a morning of bird watching. The spring migration is just starting, so we could expect to see almost anything!


Audubon Cruise on Berner's Bay

Dave standing by the St. Peter (a seaworthy catamaran)


We weren't disappointed! Our species list for the four-hour trip includes Surf Scoters, White-winged Scoters, Pacific Loons, Red-necked Grebes, Arctic Terns, Canadian Geese, and Mallards, as well as Bald Eagles, Ravens, and Seagulls! The further north we traveled, the better the weather got. The cloud ceiling raised, and glimpses of sun and blue sky appeared.


White-winged scoters (Melanitta deglandi)
Click on any photo to see an enlarged version

These islands are food-rich for birds, seals, and sea lions

Cruising around Point Bridget on the way north on Berner's Bay

Steller sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus) relax on the rocks of a haul-out point


We didn't just see birds. We also saw seals, sea lions, and lots of whales! It was a thrill to see the sea lions at the haul out. The males arrive first and sort themselves out, and then the females arrive and breeding begins. We saw some pretty big males sunbathing on the rocks.

The catamaran is very nimble, so Captain Dan could bring it in close enough for us to see the wildlife, and then cut the engine so as to not disturb them. At the end of Berner's Bay, the captain pulled a U-turn for the return visit. Berner's Bay is fed by both freshwater and glacial rivers, so St. Peter left an interesting wake of silty brown water and nutrient-rich green water.


Turn-around point on Berner's Bay

Whale spray to the stern, viewed from the top observation deck

Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) takes a breath

Humpback whale photo-op


On the return trip we saw many whales in the Bay. They seemed to be hanging out in small groups, and just lounging in the water. Periodically one or two of them would raise up for a quick breath. Captain Dan cut the engine, and we just drifted. From the top observation deck, we had a 360° view of whale groups. Lots of pictures and lots of smiles all around.


Big sky over Berner's Bay

St. Peter's wake on the way home through the mist

Scanning for birds and sea creatures

Approaching Statter Harbor at Auke Bay


On the way back, our Forest Service docent recounted tales of shipwrecks that have occurred in the area over the years, such as the SS Princess Sophia, SS Princess Kathleen, and SS Princess May. As we travelled south, we encountered a heavy mist. The cloud ceiling lowered as we entered Statter Harbor, and the rain resumed as we disembarked. What a wonderful cruise!

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