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Wednesday, January 30, 2019

Colors: The Story of Dyes and Pigments

This slim book is packed with the history of dyes and pigments, and their evolution from organic to synthetic. Colors: The Story of Dyes and Pigments is by François Delamare (a chemist, metallurgist, and expert in modern and ancient pigments), and Bernard Guineau (a physicist, research engineer, and expert in ancient colors). The book is published as part of the Harry N. Abrams Discoveries series (New York, 1999). I've read the book many times, first in 2017 while researching color in the garden (recall we spilled over into the nature of color and the art world a bit), and later in 2018 while researching "plants to dye for".



The initial chapter sets the stage by describing the nature of pigments and vegetable dyes, and telling the story of humans use of them since ancient history. By their nature pigments are more durable and examples have endured (such as the cave paintings in Lascaux, France). Fabric and plant-based dyes are not as durable, but ancient writings inform us that fixatives, mordants, and dyes (such as madder, indigo, weld, and woad) were also used in ancient times. Chapter 2 describes dyeing in the middle ages, when bright colors were considered a luxury and Europe's international textile industry flourished. Chapter 3 describes the explosion of supply and demand as the standard of living in Europe improved, and global exploration and the scientific revolution fostered innovation. Chapter 4 describes the birth of organic chemistry, and the ability to synthesize color in new ways. The back matter provides excerpts from various documents and a great reading list.

Every time I read this book I learn something new. It's only 160 pages long (with lots of pictures), but is full of fascinating history and information. One thing I noticed is how prevalent tariffs and trade wars were in ancient and more recent history, to protect the local dye industry and attempt to keep out global competitors. Industries boomed and failed all through history as new discoveries were made and new sources became available. Apparently some things never change! I especially enjoyed the illustrations and photos used to tell the story of dyes, processes, and the beautiful textiles produced. I recommend this book if you're interested in learning more about the pigments and dyes used to color our world.

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