Tooling up to Dye

During my sabbatical I spent some time delving into the art and science of dyeing fabric with plant-based dyes. In the next few months, I plan to share my experiences with several hands-on dye projects. As with any project, one of the first tasks is to tool up! Following are some the supplies that I found quite useful. As with any creative endeavor, you may find a better solution!

Studio

A well-ventilated outdoor area is the best place to work. I use our partially-covered back patio as my dyeing "studio". The brick retaining wall provides a stable work surface for my supplies and heat source. I typically use either a propane gas stove (my Coleman camp stove works great), or an electric burner. Dust and vapor face masks, rubber gloves, closed-toe shoes, and a full-length splash-proof apron are important for protecting yourself. You can use your kitchen as a studio, but it is important to take precautions to ensure you and your family aren't exposed to anything toxic.

An outdoor studio for dyeing with plants

Equipment

You need several large pots for boiling water and the dye stuff. Avoid using your cooking pots to prevent residual chemicals from contaminating your food. Instead use old pans that you've retired  from cooking, or visit thrift stores to find them. Many of the books on dyeing recommend stainless steel or copper pans, but I use the large aluminum pots from my two grandmothers (the same pots I use for paper-making projects). The aluminum may change the chemistry of the water slightly. If you are concerned about the acidity or alkalinity of your water source, you can test it using a pH tester or pH test strips from the pharmacy, and adjust the water with vinegar (acid) or ammonia (alkali). We have pretty good tap water so I haven't experimented with that yet.

A collection of containers, pans, stir sticks, jars, and cheese cloth

You'll also need strainers, cheese cloth, plastic buckets, wooden or stainless steel spoons for stirring (I use wooden paint stir sticks from the hardware store), and glass jars for storing leftover dye. Again, these should not be the same utensils you use for cooking.

Fabric

You can dye protein-based fabric (such as wool or silk) or plant-based fabric (such as cotton or linen). The techniques for preparing fabric to receive the dye are slightly different.

White cotton dish towels for dyeing

In either case, you need to know the weight of your fabric so you can calculate the quantity of mordant or dye material to use. I'm working with white cotton dish towels, which weigh about 77 grams (2.27 ounces) each. Recipes frequently state the percentage of dye or mordant required.

Weight of Fiber * % = Weight of Mordant/Dyestuff 

For example, if the recipe calls for 100% alum mordant and you are processing 100 grams of fabric, you need 100 grams of alum for the mordant. If the recipe calls for 50% strength of dye, you need 50 grams of the dye source for your 100 grams of fabric.

Mordants and Fixatives

Mordants prepare the fabric to receive dye. Some books recommend that you "scrub" the fabric first to remove any sizing, wax, or surface treatment from the fabric. Use washing soda, which can be found in the laundry detergent aisle of the grocery store or online. The typical mordants for plant-based fabric are salt, vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, and alum. 

A collection of mordants

Protein-based fabrics require mordants that include metal, such as copper or iron, which can be toxic (and why I have chosen to focus on plant-based fabric for now). Alum is a metal but is safe for household dye projects. Additives such as vinegar or ammonia can be used to change the pH of the water and the color of the dye.

Dye Stuff

You can extract dye from plant material by boiling it in water, and then straining it. You need quite a bit of water for boiling and rinsing, and a place to hang your fabric to air dry. Some of the books describe other processes like solar dyeing, and soaking the fabric in jars with the raw dye source over a long period of time.

Dye Stuff: onion skin

You can also purchase natural dyes that have been extracted from plant material and are sold in powdered form. That can save you quite a bit of time, allowing you to focus more on the dyeing. Or you can also purchase synthetic dyes, like Rit Dye if you want to focus on dyeing. The variety of colors are stunning, and they are widely available. But, if I have the time, I find that part of the fun is harvesting the dye source, extracting the dye, and then experimenting.

Recipes and Resources

You can find some excellent books that describe the dye process and provide recipes. I'll be sharing some of my favorites over the next few months. You can also find some great web sites that sell natural dye products and provide recipes, techniques, and ideas. That's a great way to get started, before plunging in and trying the art and science of dyeing for yourself!