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Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Historical Plant Dyes

Various plant dye sources have been used since ancient history. Pliny the Elder recorded information about dyes in the 100s,  monks recorded information in the middle ages, and the Linnaeus Apostles recorded information in the 1700s.

Following is a short list of common plants used historically for dyeing. Note that the original color of the plant material is no predictor of the dye color. Dyeing is a fine mix of chemistry and artistry, from the fixatives and mordants used to bind the dye to the fiber, to the base or acidity of the water, to the season when the dye source is gathered. Notice that several of the Latin plant names include a variation of the word "tinctorium", which indicates the plant is a known dye source.

My Example
Plant Description Notes
Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Dried root Red
Indigo (Indigo tinctoria) Leaves and stems Deep blue (appears green in the vat, then turns blue when exposed to the air). For green, dye yellow first, then indigo).
Dyer's weld (Reseda luteola) Leaves and flowers Yellow
Woad (Isatis tinctoria) Leaves Pastel blue (the color of France).
Brazil wood (Caesalpinia sp.) Heartwood Red
Osage (Maclura pomifera) Fruit Orange
Cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) Scale insect harvested from cactus Red
Buckthorn (Rhamnus tinctoria) Fruit Yellow
Lichen (various) Organism Shades of apricot, yellow, gold, brown, blue, purple, black and green, depending on the fungi species.
Black walnut (Juglans nigra) Walnut hulls Brown


This is not an exhaustive list of plant-based dyes. Humans are an innovative lot, and have used a variety of dyes throughout history, both from local sources and through trade. But it is a good start for our purposes. We'll learn more about some of these natural dye sources that have been used throughout history, as well as a few others.


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