We have a lot of lichen growing around our property, and I wanted to learn more about its dyeing potential. In my initial research, I kept encountering Lichen Dyes: The New Source Book by Karen Diadick Casselman, and thought it might be a good place to start. Lichen Dyes was published by Dover Publications, Inc. (Mineola, New York 2001). This slim book is packed with information.
The preface discusses the ethics of using lichen dyes (lichen is very slow growing and can take decades to replenish itself). Five chapters include a history of Asian and Southern European lichen dyes; domestic dyes of Northern Europe and North America; safe lichen dye methods and techniques; eco dyes and alternative mordants (less toxic); and how to identify lichen and the ethics of collecting it. The back matter includes reference material about lichens, pigments, reagents; a glossary; an annotated bibliography; and indexes.
The glossary defines lichens as a symbiotic biological entity composed of algal and fungal partners. According to Casselman, lichens can produce brilliant dyes—in shades of yellow, orange, ochre, russet, brown, copper, bronze, olive, true green, pink, mauve, violet, red, rose, magenta, purple, and blues—depending on the dye method used. Some lichens produce beige or champagne colors, but can be used as mordants.
I really appreciate Casselman's emphasis on the ethical collection and use of lichens. At times in history, lichens were collected for dyeing at an industrial scale, completely wiping out the local lichen population until it could slowly rebound. She advocates following an Eco Dye philosophy that is based on salvage botany (for example, collecting lichen that has blown down in wind or rainstorms, or is growing on tombstones or buildings, rather than scraping it off wood or stones in nature). Additionally, she recommends developing more ecologically sound methods for mordanting and dyeing that don't require toxic chemicals. I'm looking forward to trying out some of her methods in seasons to come, using the lichens growing in our yard!
I really appreciate Casselman's emphasis on the ethical collection and use of lichens. At times in history, lichens were collected for dyeing at an industrial scale, completely wiping out the local lichen population until it could slowly rebound. She advocates following an Eco Dye philosophy that is based on salvage botany (for example, collecting lichen that has blown down in wind or rainstorms, or is growing on tombstones or buildings, rather than scraping it off wood or stones in nature). Additionally, she recommends developing more ecologically sound methods for mordanting and dyeing that don't require toxic chemicals. I'm looking forward to trying out some of her methods in seasons to come, using the lichens growing in our yard!
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