Whitewater Preserve via the Outlet Mall

After a morning of coffee, dark chocolate almonds clusters, and the latest current events via our smart devices, my folks and I headed for Whitewater Preserve. The canyon, managed by The Wildlands Conservancy, is conveniently located off Interstate 10 close to the Highway 111 exit to Palm Springs. It is a favorite destination for its beauty and close proximity. Last year we were treated to a super bloom of yellow California Brittlebush (see Whitewater Preserve from 2017), but weren't sure what to expect this year.

Welcoming trail heading up the canyon

Whitewater Preserve picnic grounds with cottonwood trees

Exploring Whitewater Preserve

The day was cool and beautiful, and the air swept clean from the recent stiff breezes. The cottonwood trees in the picnic area hadn't leafed out yet. We've been grateful for their deep cool shade over the years as we've eaten our lunch or rested after a hike in the hot sun.

Intrepid hiker

River crossing

Dad walked up the trail, while Mom and I headed for the river. The Whitewater River changes course every year, and this year it was right up next to the cliffs It was fairly full of water, so we were grateful for bridges.

Whitewater River

We saw few flowers this year, in contrast with the super bloom last year. We saw an occasional Brittlebush or Bladderpod in bloom, but that's about it. However, the willows and shrubs were green from recent rains, and the San Jacinto and San Gorgonio mountains were snow topped and visible in the distance from various vantage points.

Borrego sheep (expand the picture, and follow the ridge line to the white specs)

The real treat was watching a herd of 16-17 Borregos grazing up on the hillside. We spotted a couple of mothers with lambs and the Big Daddy keeping watch. We enjoyed our unhurried ramble in the Preserve, but you can also follow the 3.6 mile Whitewater Canyon Loop trail for a more comprehensive hike (see AllTrails for details).

Desert Hills Premium Outlet Mall near Cabazon

We squeezed in a quick stop at the Desert Hills Premium Outlet Mall (right on the way) for a brief shopping spree at Carter's/Oshkosh (spring wardrobe for the new baby - see Holiday Memories from Seattle) and Coach Outlet (a new purse). And then ended the day with delicious dinner, pie, and conversation at Polly's Pies (according to Dad's app, we walked 6,197 steps), and an episode of the Danish political drama, Borgen, on DVD. I love the kind of day that spans shopping at favorite stores to hiking in a wild preserve with Borregos. A great day!

The spoils of our shopping trip

Whitewater Preserve

For the last 10 years or so, I’ve been meeting my folks down in Southern California for our annual trek into the desert for flower viewing. They fly down from Southeast Alaska and I fly down from the San Francisco Bay Area. Our quest is beautiful flowers, but we also enjoy each other’s company. They taught me how to enjoy the simple pleasures of life, and how to explore the natural world.

Heading up Whitewater Canyon Road to the Preserve

We love to find new things, and to compare differences from year to year. After a five-year drought, followed by heavy winter rains, we were eager to get out on the desert floor. We have always found flowers and ingenious survival mechanisms in nature, but had high hopes to see more this year.

Photo op for Brittlebush

We took a lot of pictures of Brittlebush

One of our favorite outings is to Whitewater Preserve, located off Interstate 10 heading east, right after the Highway 111 exit to Palm Springs. The canyon hills were ablaze with yellow Brittlebush (Encelia farinosa) like we have never seen it. The roadside and hills glowed with a golden light.

Picnic area at the Visitor Center

We picnicked at the Visitor Center under the big beautiful cottonwood trees. Everything was lush and green – bouncing back after prolonged water deprivation. The weather was unseasonably cool, so we sought out some sun under the leafy trees.

Desert X installation at Whitewater Preserve

One I Call, by Sherin Guirguis (pigeon tower)

Desert X had an installation near the visitor center—One I Call, by Sherin Guirguis—a mud hut inspired by traditional pigeon towers found in desert villages throughout Egypt. I loved its tidy architectural design, its sheltered and airy inside, and how it fits right into the desert environment. Desert X is sponsoring the art event, which features established and emerging artists, all over the Coachella Valley (February 25 – April 30). Many people were making the rounds to see the installations, and we were grateful to get in on it at Whitewater.

Outside view of One I Call

Inside view of One I Call

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Dad wanted to check some plants in the area to see how their seeds were developing, so Mom and I hiked out on the river bed.

Hiking at the Preserve

Intrepid hiker

We found the bridge to cross the river (which had quite a bit of water flowing), and walked up toward the Pacific Crest Trail. We loved the big blue sky, clear air, and sweeping vistas of the river bed, and rocky hills. The desert plants looked healthy and green with the plentiful water after spring rains.

Crossing the bridge over Whitewater River

Big sky country in So Cal

Pacific Crest Trail access from Whitewater Preserve

Later we met up with Dad and walked around the lakes near the Visitor Center, identifying the native plants (and relying on the great signage when memory failed)! The native plants are maturing and flourishing along the trail around the lakes.

Lake at Whitewater Preserve

Native plants surround the lakes

The lakes are thriving with fish, tadpoles, frogs, lizards, and birds. The Sugar Bush (Rhus ovata) was fragrant and beautiful, along with the Brittle Bush, and Chuparosa (Beloperone californica).

Lakeside walk

Late afternoon Brittlebush

For dinner, we headed to Applebee’s for their half-racks of ribs, and great conversation. We did some last-minute planning for the next day’s journey to the Salton Sea, Borrego Springs, and Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and then relaxed for the evening. A great day!

Sunset at day's end

Palm Springs to Whitewater Preserve

On our last full day together, my folks and I decided to make quick visits to a couple of our favorite destinations. We started in Palm Springs, and ended up in Whitewater Preserve – town and country in one day! The weather had started to change after several cool, damp days, so we were prepared for Palm Springs heat.

Our first stop was the Palm Springs Art Museum, located near North Palm Canyon Drive, close to the downtown area with its galleries, eateries, and unique shops. We enjoyed the Contemporary Glass exhibit, which includes End of Day #2, by Dale Chihuly, and a curtain of glass teardrops, each holding a separate secret message.

Dale Chihuly - End of Day #2 (1996), and the Contemporary Glass exhibit.

We saw photographs of Indians of North America by Edward S. Curtis (1868 – 1952). We saw a collection of Western scenes, by painters such as Paul Grimm (we’ve seen his work in the Irvine Art Museum, see California Impressionist Paintings); Sidney Laurence (who also painted landscapes in Alaska); and William Keith (his collection is at the Saint Mary’s College Museum of Art, see California Landscapes).

Paul Grimm - San Gorgonio Pass (1962). Looking west,
with Mt. San Jacinto on the left, and Mt. San Gorgonio on the right.

The Sculpture Garden is artfully placed outside the café on the lower level. The garden has plenty of shade, a reflecting pool, and many interesting plants and sculptures. It is an oasis from the heat!

Sculpture Garden at Palm Springs Art Museum (shady retreat in the Palm Springs heat).

Next, we replaced our town shoes with sturdy walking shoes, and headed for Whitewater Preserve via the Whitewater Cutoff. We made a quick hike out onto the desert floor, and were delighted to see quite a bit of water in the river, and some interesting plants and flowers. The Brittle Bush had already put on its show, but we saw a few stragglers. The Bladder Pod and willow looked lush.

Intrepid hikers at Whitewater Preserve

Whitewater River

The air was clean from recent rains, and the sky spectacular. Mom and I headed up the hill toward the Pacific Crest Trail, and found some beautiful Beavertail Cactus. A fellow hiker warned us of a snake sleeping by the side of the trail. Unfortunately, we were in a hurry to get back to the Preserve parking lot before closing, so missed seeing it!

Beetle feast on beavertail cactus

On the way home, we stopped at the new Hadley’s Fruit Orchard in Cabazon. I miss the charming fruit stand of many years, but change is inevitable. The new facility is beautiful, and is still a great place to stock up on staples like almonds and dates, and munchables like trail mix and caramel corn. Finally, we headed for Los Vaqueros Cantina and Grill for delicious Mexican food and warm conversation about our adventures. It was a great day – encompassing both art and wilderness in one afternoon!

Whitewater Preserve

We visited Whitewater Preserve twice this year – both times on a short schedule. This is one of our favorite outings when we visit Southern California (see 2012 and 2013). The light and sweep of sky and land is spectacular, and the plants and landscape seem to change from visit to visit.

Snow capped Mount San Jacinto

The Visitor Center was closed for parking lot repairs on our first visit. Undeterred, we hiked up the dry river bed to enjoy the plants and vistas. In past years, a healthy creek has flowed through the river bed, varying its course from year to year. Not this time. We could see signs of the recent rainstorm, but the water had soaked into the sand. The nearby mountains still had snow from the downpour of the previous day.

Whitewater River bed

We saw a great display of wild grape vine (Vitis girdiana). The vines are frequently draped over shrubs and plants, and look like they are strangling their hosts. But here, clinging to a boulder, they seemed more appealing. We also saw a natural “rock wall” in the form of a dry river bed. I love finding these in situ landscaping examples.



Wild grape vine

River bed

 

Blossoms were few and far between. As with last year, the Yucca blossoms were almost non-existent; the few we saw seemed small and malformed. The drought continues to take its toll. But we did see lavender colored Phacelia (Phacelia spp.), and yellow tree tobacco (Nicotiana glauca). The willows and cottonwoods were thriving even in this dry year.

The sand on the right shows evidence of the recent rains

On our second visit, we ran into the expat Iranians under the beautiful Cottonwoods at the Visitor Center. We had met them just days before in Andreas Canyon under the California Fan Palms. They were on their way back to the Los Angeles area after their desert vacation. What are the odds we would see them twice!

Hearty hikers seeking shade

My folks and I followed the trail up the canyon a ways, looking for familiar land marks, and comparing and contrasting with previous years. Everything is bone dry. Still, there is something magical about that river bed with its big sky and mountains – the sky is brighter, the light is clearer, the colors more intense.

Whitewater Preserve

My folks and I love visiting Whitewater Preserve on our annual Southern California desert tour. We have visited the preserve for the last several years (see reports from 2011 and 2012), and always find something new. Plus, it is fascinating to compare and contrast from year to year. This year’s big observation was how dry everything is.

Big sky country on the Whitewater River

Whitewater River still has water, but not as much as in previous years. It was easy to cross the stream to access the path leading to the Pacific Coast Trail. Last year we observed many Yucca whipplei (Our Lord’s Candle) with many magnificent blossoms; this year we saw many old stalks without blossoms. Many plants look stressed from lack of water, including lots of mistletoe on the sycamore, willow, and cottonwood trees (even the mistletoe looked stressed). Flowers were scattered and few. The tule reeds by the river were dry. Many bushes looked almost dead, sometimes only putting out a few blossoms.

Mormon Tea with single blossom	Inside view of a Bladder Pod with several seeds
Dry Tule Reeds	Man Root Vine on dry bush

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Despite this rather bleak report, Whitewater Preserve was beautiful! We love the grand sweep of sky and land, and the brisk breeze that sweeps down the river bed (cleaning the air and maintaining a comfortable temperature for hiking). We found tenacious flowers and plants along the trail and river bed – Bladder Pod (with huge pods), yellow and purple Phacelia, Cheesebush, Chippurosa, Mormon Tea, Creosote Bush, and a Beavertail Cactus in full bloom with fuchsia blossoms. It is amazing to observe the survival strategies employed by plants to survive the harsh, drought conditions.

Sweeping vistas of the Whitewater Preserve

Whitewater Preserve

My folks and I visited Whitewater Preserve again this year, this time sharing it with Borregos and Boy Scouts. We watched a herd of 11 Borrego sheep high above us through binoculars and zoom lenses. What a treat to see such a large group grazing in a lush meadow high on the hills overlooking the preserve, and to see the steep, rocky cliffs surrounding them, which they need to navigate routinely. We also enjoyed the youth and vitality of a Webelo scout troop that was breaking camp while we ate our picnic lunch in the cottonwood grove.

Lush vegetation along the river bed.

We hiked up the Pacific Crest Trail a ways, enjoying the bright vistas of rock, sky, and the Whitewater River. Water was moving pretty quickly in the river, but we were able to navigate across the water into the willows that grow close to the water.

Exploring the trail that follows the Whitewater River.

We didn’t see as many spring blooms this year, probably due to being earlier in the year, and a drier spring. But we did see a Yucca whipplei (Our Lord's Candle) just starting to bloom, with many blossoms emerging from between its bracts.

Blossoms are just starting to emerge from between the
bracts. Last year the blossoms were mature.

Whitewater Preserve

One of our desert adventures was visiting the Whitewater Preserve. The Preserve was originally a commercial trout farm and enjoyed by locals for several decades. The site is now used as a visitor center and picnic area, with access to several trails. The fish farm still exists, but is used for educational purposes. The visitor center is a half mile hike to the Pacific Crest Trail, which extends from Mexico to Canada.

Trail leading from the visitor center to several trail heads.
Keep going to meet  up with the Pacific Coast Tail.
You can see the snow capped mountains in the distance.

Veer to the left from the trial to access the Whitewater River bed.
The cliff is on the other side of the river.

The trails enable you to explore the Whitewater River bed and surrounding areas. The river is fed by snow melt from the distant mountains, and changes course regularly. Small bridges are provided in some sections of the river bed, but may no longer be useful or available because of the changes. The hills surrounding the area provide a cross section of geology, and the river bed itself is home to interesting plants, including willow, palms, tulle reeds, and yucca.

Whitewater River in April. The snow capped mountains in the distance are
the water source. In places, the water is deep and swift.
Water loving willows grow near the river.

Looking the other direction, toward the visitor center. You can
see multiple river courses, and one of the bridges
near the center of the photo.

The Preserve has become part of the Wildlands Conservancy, a non-profit organization dedicated to restoring and preserving wild land in California. The Whitewater Preserve is part of an effort to acquire contiguous parcels of land to provide a wildlife corridor between the San Gorgonio and San Bernardino mountains. The Conservancy is also instrumental in preserving land in Northern California, including the Jenner Headlands.

To learn more about the Conservancy: https://wildlandsconservancy.org/preserves/whitewater

To get to the Preserve:
Take the Whitewater Canyon Road exit off Interstate 10, between the Palm Springs and Twentynine Palms Hwy exits, and follow Whitewater Canyon Road to the visitor center.


View 9160 Whitewater Canyon Rd in a larger map