Benicia and the Delta

My husband and I are just back from a four-day trip to Benicia and the Delta. That may not sound as exciting as a trip to Hawaii, Alaska, or Europe, but I had read an article that caught my imagination, in the Regional in Nature Activity Guide (East Bay Parks District, September-October 2021, page 7) . "A Day Drive in the Delta" described a 46-mile driving loop that starts at Big Break Regional Shoreline in Oakley, CA, follows Highway 160 North, links up with Highways 220 and 84, and ends in Rio Vista, CA. I've always wanted to know more about "the Delta", and this sounded like a great way to start. It didn't take long to put together an itinerary for a short trip! 

Union Hotel in Benicia, established in 1852

View of the Carquinez Bridge from Coast Lotus

We stayed at the charming Union Hotel in historic Benicia, CA. From the Coast Lotus room, we had great views of Carquinez Strait and the Carquinez Bridge. Benicia was incorporated in March 1850 and has served as the state capital for 13 months from 1853 to 1854; as the site for an arsenal for the United States Army; and as the location for the original Mills College (then called the Young Ladies Seminary) before it moved to Oakland. We spent a day enjoying the local sites.

Benicia Bridge Vista Point (old and new bridges)

Benicia Clock Tower

Benicia Arsenal
(Benicia Historical Museum at the Camel Barns)

View from the Benicia City Cemetery

Benicia Capitol State Park

The next day we launched out to explore the Delta, following the map and information in "A Day Drive in the Delta". At the Big Break Regional Shoreline visitor center we learned about the Delta, its origin as a vast wetlands, and the fifty years of human engineering to create a series of levees and agricultural land. The Delta refers to the intricate network of waterways, canals, and sloughs that connect the Sierra Nevada to the San Francisco Bay.

Map excerpt from "A Day Drive in the Delta" (East Bay Parks District)

First visit to the Big Break Visitor Center

Scoop used to reclaim land

We had a picnic at the Brannan Island State Recreation Area, and learned more about the workers who built the agricultural lands at Isleton (because of time, we didn't visit the Locke Historic District). 

Picnic break at Brannan Island State Recreation Area

Slough by Brannan Island

Isleton Chinese and Japanese Commercial Districts

Chinese Laborers Memorial Pavilion in Isleton

We drove across Ryer's Island, enjoying the green fields and waterways from the highway built on top of the levees. Two ferries are part of the highway system, and enabled us to access and depart Ryer's Island. We arrived at Rio Vista in time to see the Rio Vista Bridge raise so a ship could pass, but managed to evade the resulting traffic jam that was waiting to cross the bridge. Back at the hotel, I spotted a ship approaching the Carquinez Bridge and wondered if it had passed under the Rio Vista Bridge a couple of hours before.

The highway follows the levees

Waiting for the "Real McCoy Ferry"

Rio Vista Bridge vertical-lift bridge in the raised position
(CSR 12 across the Sacramento River)

Ship approaches the Carquinez Bridge at Sunset

The next day we slept in, and spent a lazy day walking to the First Street Peninsula and public fishing pier, and strolling around town. We ended the day with a delicious dinner at the Union Hotel Restaurant & Bar, and great conversation about all our interesting experiences and adventures. 

First Street Peninsula

Sunset over Carquinez Strait

Union Hotel Restaurant

I really enjoyed our time on the Delta, seeing all that rich farmland and waterways, and thinking about the complex balance between pristine wetlands and human needs for transportation, food, and water. We just scratched the surface of the Delta, but I still came away with a new appreciation for California's unique water system.