It's that dark and rainy time of year, where staying inside seems more appealing than heading outside for projects. Over the years we've watched some interesting winter movies, ideally with popcorn and in the company of a friend or loved one. The movies typically showcase plants in the starring role (no matter how obscure the connection), and either entertain or inform us. Last year we watched Indigo - A World of Blue, in preparation for our year of dyeing fabric with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria). The documentary was produced by Maiwa Productions (which is affiliated with the Maiwa School of Textiles, a favorite source for natural dyes, mordants, and fibers).
This winter we are watching the documentary Tana Bana Wisdom of the Loom, also by Maiwa Productions. After the last several years of dyeing fabric with natural dyes, and seeing how different fibers absorb the dye, it is a natural progression to want to learn more about weaving. Through the documentary, we can follow the experts at Maiwa as they visit small scale weaving studios all over India, Pakistan, Africa, Indonesia, Laos, and more. Many of these destinations are known world-wide for their beautiful textiles. This is a perfect movie for a sabbatical year!
The documentary starts with a brief history of weaving, which is one of the oldest of technologies. Important terms are defined, including Warp (the long thread that runs vertically up and down the fabric); Weft (the horizontal thread that passes from salvage to salvage, also called the Woof); Loom (the frame that keeps the cloth taught); and Tabby weave (the most basic, plain weave of warp and weft threads). The production crew visits small studios all over the world to explore the many variations of weaves that have been developed, as well as techniques to embellish, dye, and enhance the weaving. The small operations cannot compete with industrial scale weaving, but can produce fabrics that are beautiful and original.
I was especially interested to learn about all the variations in weave patterns. For example, in Indonesia, Sumba weavers add a supplementary warp tread to the base weave of story cloths for extra pattern. In Laos, weavers use a supplementary weft thread that extends from selvage to selvage to enhance the pattern with texture. Extra threads are added to create a twill weave that is strong and supple, as seen in denim blue jeans. In India, small threads are added as supplemental welp, and cut to produce texture and pattern. A mushroom weave of cotton and silk enables individuals in Muslin culture to keep silk from touching the skin, but still enjoy silks' luster and sheen on the outside. I enjoyed sewing my wardrobe in my youth, so I was fascinated to learn more about how fabric is woven to produce interesting patterns. I highly recommend Tana Bana Wisdom of the Loom (access is free, but you must create an account to watch).
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