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Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Textilia Linnaeana: Global 18th Century Textile Traditions & Trade

Textilia Linnaeana: Global 18th Century Textile Traditions & Trade is a scholarly look at data collected by the Linnaeus Apostles, through the lens of textiles and dyes. Viveka Hansen is the author and an independent textile historian. She works as a researcher and editorial secretary at the IK Foundation (United Kingdom). Textilia Linnaeana was published as the fifth volume in the Mundus Linnae Series, and issued by the IK Foundation & Company (London 2017).



The introduction sets the stage with Carl Linnaeus's exploration of Sweden and environments, and his pursuit to gather plant specimens and classify them using the binomial naming system. He was also interested in finding practical and economical uses for plants, which would enable Sweden to be self sufficient and to prosper. Over the course of fifty years, he sent his "apostles" out from the University at Uppsala to all over the world to gather plant specimens, name and classify them, and consider their economic use.

The bulk of the book is devoted to the contribution of each apostle, using their journals and source material, and extracting their notes and observations about textiles and dyes. The back matter includes information about dye stuff and Hansen's experience dyeing wool fiber with plant dyes; extensive notes and a list of illustrations; and a comprehensive bibliography.

I focused on the four Linnaeus Apostles we studied several years ago (Pehr Löfling, Pehr Kalm, Carl Peter Thunberg, and Daniel Solander). I was fascinated to learn how the locals they interviewed used native plants to dye fiber (or paid for higher-quality dyes from exotic sources), extracted dyes, and dyed their fibers. I also enjoyed reading details from the explorer's journals about practical matters like what it cost to have clothes laundered, the impossibility of drying linen on ship after washing clothes in salt water (often resulting in mold), and the difficulty of obtaining suitable clothing in some places. I recommend this book for anyone interested in plants, plant dyes, and plant exploration in the 1700s. It is a scholarly work, but very accessible to read.


Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Tooling up to Dye

During my sabbatical I spent some time delving into the art and science of dyeing fabric with plant-based dyes. In the next few months, I plan to share my experiences with several hands-on dye projects. As with any project, one of the first tasks is to tool up! Following are some the supplies that I found quite useful. As with any creative endeavor, you may find a better solution!

Studio

A well-ventilated outdoor area is the best place to work. I use our partially-covered back patio as my dyeing "studio". The brick retaining wall provides a stable work surface for my supplies and heat source. I typically use either a propane gas stove (my Coleman camp stove works great), or an electric burner. Dust and vapor face masks, rubber gloves, closed-toe shoes, and a full-length splash-proof apron are important for protecting yourself. You can use your kitchen as a studio, but it is important to take precautions to ensure you and your family aren't exposed to anything toxic.

An outdoor studio for dyeing with plants


Equipment

You need several large pots for boiling water and the dye stuff. Avoid using your cooking pots to prevent residual chemicals from contaminating your food. Instead use old pans that you've retired  from cooking, or visit thrift stores to find them. Many of the books on dyeing recommend stainless steel or copper pans, but I use the large aluminum pots from my two grandmothers (the same pots I use for paper-making projects). The aluminum may change the chemistry of the water slightly. If you are concerned about the acidity or alkalinity of your water source, you can test it using a pH tester or pH test strips from the pharmacy, and adjust the water with vinegar (acid) or ammonia (alkali). We have pretty good tap water so I haven't experimented with that yet.

A collection of containers, pans, stir sticks, jars, and cheese cloth

You'll also need strainers, cheese cloth, plastic buckets, wooden or stainless steel spoons for stirring (I use wooden paint stir sticks from the hardware store), and glass jars for storing leftover dye. Again, these should not be the same utensils you use for cooking.

Fabric

You can dye protein-based fabric (such as wool or silk) or plant-based fabric (such as cotton or linen). The techniques for preparing fabric to receive the dye are slightly different.

White cotton dish towels for dyeing

In either case, you need to know the weight of your fabric so you can calculate the quantity of mordant or dye material to use. I'm working with white cotton dish towels, which weigh about 77 grams (2.27 ounces) each. Recipes frequently state the percentage of dye or mordant required.

Weight of Fiber * % = Weight of Mordant/Dyestuff 

For example, if the recipe calls for 100% alum mordant and you are processing 100 grams of fabric, you need 100 grams of alum for the mordant. If the recipe calls for 50% strength of dye, you need 50 grams of the dye source for your 100 grams of fabric.


Mordants and Fixatives

Mordants prepare the fabric to receive dye. Some books recommend that you "scrub" the fabric first to remove any sizing, wax, or surface treatment from the fabric. Use washing soda, which can be found in the laundry detergent aisle of the grocery store or online. The typical mordants for plant-based fabric are salt, vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, and alum. 

A collection of mordants

Protein-based fabrics require mordants that include metal, such as copper or iron, which can be toxic (and why I have chosen to focus on plant-based fabric for now). Alum is a metal but is safe for household dye projects. Additives such as vinegar or ammonia can be used to change the pH of the water and the color of the dye.

Dye Stuff

You can extract dye from plant material by boiling it in water, and then straining it. You need quite a bit of water for boiling and rinsing, and a place to hang your fabric to air dry. Some of the books describe other processes like solar dyeing, and soaking the fabric in jars with the raw dye source over a long period of time.

Dye Stuff: onion skin

You can also purchase natural dyes that have been extracted from plant material and are sold in powdered form. That can save you quite a bit of time, allowing you to focus more on the dyeing. Or you can also purchase synthetic dyes, like Rit Dye if you want to focus on dyeing. The variety of colors are stunning, and they are widely available. But, if I have the time, I find that part of the fun is harvesting the dye source, extracting the dye, and then experimenting.

Recipes and Resources

You can find some excellent books that describe the dye process and provide recipes. I'll be sharing some of my favorites over the next few months. You can also find some great web sites that sell natural dye products and provide recipes, techniques, and ideas. That's a great way to get started, before plunging in and trying the art and science of dyeing for yourself!

Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Historical Plant Dyes

Various plant dye sources have been used since ancient history. Pliny the Elder recorded information about dyes in the 100s,  monks recorded information in the middle ages, and the Linnaeus Apostles recorded information in the 1700s.

Following is a short list of common plants used historically for dyeing. Note that the original color of the plant material is no predictor of the dye color. Dyeing is a fine mix of chemistry and artistry, from the fixatives and mordants used to bind the dye to the fiber, to the base or acidity of the water, to the season when the dye source is gathered. Notice that several of the Latin plant names include a variation of the word "tinctorium", which indicates the plant is a known dye source.

My Example
Plant Description Notes
Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Dried root Red
Indigo (Indigo tinctoria) Leaves and stems Deep blue (appears green in the vat, then turns blue when exposed to the air). For green, dye yellow first, then indigo).
Dyer's weld (Reseda luteola) Leaves and flowers Yellow
Woad (Isatis tinctoria) Leaves Pastel blue (the color of France).
Brazil wood (Caesalpinia sp.) Heartwood Red
Osage (Maclura pomifera) Fruit Orange
Cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) Scale insect harvested from cactus Red
Buckthorn (Rhamnus tinctoria) Fruit Yellow
Lichen (various) Organism Shades of apricot, yellow, gold, brown, blue, purple, black and green, depending on the fungi species.
Black walnut (Juglans nigra) Walnut hulls Brown


This is not an exhaustive list of plant-based dyes. Humans are an innovative lot, and have used a variety of dyes throughout history, both from local sources and through trade. But it is a good start for our purposes. We'll learn more about some of these natural dye sources that have been used throughout history, as well as a few others.


Wednesday, February 6, 2019

Plants to Dye For

Welcome to the official kickoff to this year's theme – plants to dye for! I spent some of my sabbatical studying all about the dyes used to color yarns, fibers, and fabrics. I spent many hours of my youth designing and creating clothing, using all kinds of fabric, and love beautiful textiles. I suppose it is natural that I would be curious about fabric dyes, and the process of dyeing fabric.

Illustrations from Dr. G. H. von Schuberts in Naturgeschichte des Pflanzenreichs
(published before 1923 and public domain in the United States)

The story of dyes is interlocked with human story – discovery, experimentation, migration, trade routes, tariffs, boom and bust economies, innovations, and trade deals. People have been wearing protective clothing for millennium and dyeing fibers since they figured out how to weave or beat fibers into cloth. According to Colors: The Story of Dyes and Pigments (page 19), remnants of fabric dyed with weld have been found in Egypt dating to 6000 BCE (the authors acknowledge the art of dyeing is likely much older, but fiber is very fragile and rarely survives). Fabric dyed with indigo has been found in South America dating to 4000 BCE (see Oldest Know Indigo Dye Found in Peru).

Illustrations from Dr. G. H. von Schuberts in Naturgeschichte des Pflanzenreichs

I delved into the plants used historically to dye fabric, including weld, indigo, woad, madder, cochineal (technically an insect that lives on cactus), lichen, osage, and many others. I learned about the basic process of extracting dye stuff from the plant source, how to prepare fabrics to receive dyes using mordants and fixatives, and how to dye. I was fascinated with the chemistry involved for provoking different colors out of the original dye, sometimes just by changing its alkalinity or acidity.

Illustrations from Dr. G. H. von Schuberts in Naturgeschichte des Pflanzenreichs

Best of all, I tried my hand at dyeing. I pulled together dye equipment, dyes, and cotton dish towels for my experiments. I extracted my own dyes and purchased commercial dyes based on natural sources. I experimented with various fixatives. I was hooked! I found that dyeing is a blend of art and science, and that I had as many successes as failures. Many dyes are now synthesized and mass produced – coloring our world with a fabulous array of shades and tones, both bold and subtle. I'm fine with that. But I also love the wide variety of colors produced by nature. I'm hoping you'll join me in the months ahead to explore the fascinating world of dyeing with plants!

Illustrations from Dr. G. H. von Schuberts in Naturgeschichte des Pflanzenreichs