Plant Hunters: Edith Van Allen Murphey

More plant hunters! This year I'm focusing on women collectors in the Western United States. Our first report is about the self-taught ethnobotanist, Edith Van Allen Murphy (1879-1968), who worked in the Intermountain National Forest lands within Utah, Nevada, western Wyoming, and southern Idaho; and later in California. I first learned about Ms. Murphey while reading Lester Rountree's Hardy Californians (see Plant Hunters: Lester Rountree). In the forward, Judith Larner Lowry describes Murphey as a seed-gathering woman who was contemporaneous with Rowntree, and collected in Mendocino County in California.

Edith Van Allen-Murphey (Sojourn Magazine Winter 96-97)

Edith Van Allen was born in 1879 in New York state. She attended Melvil Dewey's library school at Albany, New York (Dewey invented the Dewey Decimal system of library classification). In 1902 she was recruited to catalog rare books for the University of California at Berkeley and moved across country. In around 1903, failing eyesight prevented her from continuing the work. She moved to the redwoods near Sherwood, just north of Willits, to homestead. She married a neighboring homesteader but divorced two years later. During this time she learned how to live off the land from nearby Pomo natives.

Over the next 25 years, she married two more ranchers, Sanford Lee Redwine of Round Valley and then Will Murphey of Covelo. Both marriages were happy, but left her a widow. While living on these primitive California ranches, she fell in love with Mendocino and developed a passion for rare native flowers. Between chores, she collected specimens, and corresponded with botanist Carl Purdy (1861-1945) of Ukiah, sending them to him for identification and learning from his responses. In 1906, Mrs. Phoebe Hearst commissioned her to collect the best of Northern California Indian basketry for the University of California. In 1925 her third husband, Will Murphey, died and Murphey sold their ranch.

Sam Young (Hayfork Wintu), Edith Van Allen Murphey, and Lucy Young (Lassik)

Murphey realized she was free to follow her passion for plants. From 1925 to 1935 she worked for United States Bureau of Indian Affairs. Their primary interest was to identify and eliminate stock-poisoning plants on Indian cattle and sheep ranges. During this time she lived and worked with eleven Indian tribes gathering data, as the United States Indian Service's only range botanist. The contacts that Ms. Murphey made during her research for the BIA, enabled her to document plant use by indigenous people groups throughout the Intermountain region and the West, and to publish Indian Uses of Native Plants. 

Detail from the Mendocino County History Mural, painted by Judy Pruden
Left to right: Carl Purdy, Sam Young, Edith Murphey, and Lucy Young

In 1927, at the age of 48, she headed to the Mendocino high country in hopes of being a plant collector for John Purdy, who collected and sold California seeds and bulbs all over the world. He refused to hire a woman as a plant collector, but hired her as a cook instead. She was still able to collect plant specimens from spring through fall, and met many visiting botanists during her time with Purdy. From 1935 until her death in 1968, she spent her days in Covelo, California advocating for both native Americans and the amazing biodiversity of California's plants. Artist Judy Pruden included Carl Purdy, Sam Young, Edith Van Allen Murphey, and Lucy Young as botanists on the Mendocino County History Mural, in Ukiah, California.

Learn More

• Edith Van Allen Murphey, Sojourn Magazine Premier Issue, Winter 1996-1997. Written by Liz Helenchild, using original wording by Ms. Murphey where possible. https://creation-designs.com/gracemillennium/sojourn/premiere/html/ed_murphey.html

• Edith Van Allen Murphey Papers, University of Nevada, Reno (microfilm; the originals are in Covelo, California). https://archive.library.unr.edu/public/repositories/2/resources/139
• Indian Uses of Native Plants. Edith Van Allen Murphey (Meyerbooks, Illinois, 1990; and Mendocino County Historical Society, 1958, 1987). Ethnobotanical uses of native plants by indigenous people of the Intermountain area. https://www.amazon.com/Indian-Native-Plants-Edith-Murphey/dp/0916638154

• Hardy Californians, Lester Rowntree (University of California Press, Berkeley, 2006). The forward includes the article, "Lester Rowntree's Horticultural Legacy", by Judith Lowry. On page lxvii, Lowry writes that plant collecting contemporaries Rowntree, Edith Van Allen Murphey, and Willis Linn Jepson loved the freedom and adventure of the automobile while plant collecting. She also notes that Murphey longed to meet Rowntree. https://www.amazon.com/Hardy-Californians-Womans-Native-Plants/dp/0520250516/

• The Lily Man of Ukiah, NYBG LuEsther T. Mertz Library, Plant & Research Guides, Nursery and Seed Catalogs: Carl Purdy and the Bulbs and Wild Flowers of California. Explores the nursery catalogs and professional career of Carl Purdy, who saw and understood the flora of California with an unmatched acuity. Edith Van Allen Murphey served as apprentice and cook for Purdy. https://libguides.nybg.org/c.php?g=655017&p=4597876

Note: search this article for "Edith Murphey: A disciple of Carl Purdy". The side bar article provides more information about Ms. Murphey and her life experiences.

• Lucy Young, Round Valley, podcast: Parts 1 - 7. KZYX Mendocino County Remembered, read by Linda Pack. The saga of a 10-year old Wailaki Indian girl in 1862 who fled from soldiers and from white men who trafficked in Indian children. In 1939, when Lucy was in her 90s, she told her story to her friend and neighbor in Covelo, the ethnobotanist Edith Van Allen Murphey. Lucy Young wanted the truth to be told. https://feeds.transistor.fm/kzyx-mendocino-county-remembered (search for "Lucy Young").

• Mendocino County Historical Mural, painted by Judy Pruden. This mural runs the length of an entire city block on the north wall of the Ukiah Valley Conference Center in downtown Ukiah, California. Panel 25 is devoted to Ukiah botanist and horticulturist Carl Purdy, Covelo ethnobotanist Edith Van Allen Murphey, and Native botanical experts Lucy Young (Lassik) and her husband Sam Young (Hayfork Wintu). https://historymural.com/sections/six/remembrance/#botanists

Month-by-Month: Spring

Today is a beautiful sunny day here in the Oakland Hills. It's 59 degrees this morning, with the promise of hitting a high of 67 degrees this afternoon. It's a perfect morning to research an upcoming trip and finish a few chores inside, before moving outside for the afternoon. I've noticed some weeds that need pulling and general yard cleanup that needs to be done. 

Wispy windowsill parsley started last fall (my husband calls it "Sparsely")!

This morning I'm checking in with the University of California Master Gardeners of Alameda County website, specifically the Your Alameda County Garden, Month-by-Month page. Time to see what garden activities should be happening in April, May, and June here in the Bay Area. Nighttime temperature lows are above 45 degrees, so there is little danger of frost.

The main activities for these warmer months of spring include planting root crops and cool-season crops in April, and then summer vegetables, flowers and bulbs in May. Throughout the season is lots of weeding, thinning, watering, fertilizing, and monitoring for pests. These months are very busy for the home gardener (and I'm already behind)! 

Amaryllis Care

It's no secret that I love Amaryllis blossoms (Hippeastrum spp.) If in doubt, see Forcing Bulbs: Amaryllis, Favorite Christmas Plants, and Forcing Amaryllis Bulbs. Once they bloom, I let the bulbs go dormant, and then replant them in large communal pots. With some care, the bulbs flower in subsequent years, although the blooms are typically smaller and not as bodacious as the initial bloom. It is still satisfying.

Amaryllis bulbs of various ages (mature and pups)

I noticed that my pots of Amaryllis were starting to look a little bedraggled, and a few plants were dusted with white powder, indicating some kind of pest. Time for some clean up and TLC!

Soaking the roots in a little water

I dug up the bulbs and inspected the roots. They looked long, strong, and healthy, despite what was happening above ground. I trimmed the shoots, cut the roots back to about 4 inches long, and then let the roots soak in a pail of clean water to mitigate the shock. This gave me time to scrub the pots inside and out.

Fresh soil in the clean pots

Next, I replanted the bulbs in fresh potting soil, being careful not to damage the roots, and then topped-dressed with fresh moss. Finally, I watered them in carefully, to make sure the bulbs did not get flooded with water. After several weeks, the bulbs have started putting out leaves.

Freshly planted and top-dressed with moss

We'll see if the special care encourages another round of blossoms. In the meantime, I'm content to watch the fresh foliage grow.

Easter Lily Care

Last year a friend gave us a beautiful Easter lily in a container. We enjoyed its blossoms and variegated leaves for several months, and then the plant died back to replenish itself. The bulb was completely neglected over the winter. In late spring, I noticed a few fresh sprouts, and decided to give the lily some care.

Multiple new sprouts from the same bulb

I replanted the bulb in a terracotta pot with fresh potting soil. The original plastic pot  was getting too small and looking a little battered. Within a few weeks, the sprouts really took off, and the leaves started to unfurl.

Stems and leaves emerge
(Snake Pot to the left by Jason Quisenberry)

Now we're enjoying the beautiful leaves and how they soak up the sunlight. The plant is doing very well on the patio (although some kind of insect has munched on a few of the tender leaves as they emerge). We're still waiting for blossoms, but enjoying the plant as it is. New life!

Flourishing, but no sign of flowers

Forcing Bulbs: Hyacinth

I love forcing bulbs to bloom out of season especially in January when the weather can be dark and gloomy, and the fun of Thanksgiving and Christmas has passed. Bulbs are easy to grow outside, and inside with a little knowledge and preparation. Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) are native to southwestern Asia, southern and central Turkey, northwestern Syria, Lebanon, and northern Israel.

Unlike paperwhites and amaryllis, these bulbs need some advance preparation. The bulbs must be kept at a cool temperature for about six weeks to trigger the conditions needed for blooming. I typically purchase a bag of bulbs in the fall when they are available in hardware stores or garden shops, and push them to the back of my refrigerator where they remain through the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays. By January, they are ready to force. If Easter is early enough, you may even be able to time them to bloom for the holiday.

Hyacinths bulbs (Hyacinthus orientalis) – day 23

For this project you'll need:

• Bulbs that have been prepared as described
• Special bulb vases, which are available from a variety of sources 
• (Optional) Shallow bowl or tin 

Tooling up – day 1

To grow:

1. Fill the bulb vases with clear water.
2. Optionally, place the root end of the bulbs in a low pan of water for about 20 minutes. Typically the roots are dry, so this helps "wake them up".
3. Place a bulb in each vase with the pointed end up and the root end down and submerged in water.
4. Place in a sunny or bright location, such as a kitchen window sill.
5. Watch and enjoy as the bulbs take root, and the stems and flowers emerge. Add water as needed.

Roots appear – day 3

Stems and buds appear – day 14 (and brighten a gloomy day)

Aftercare: 

When the flowers are spent, remove them from the bulbs, and move the vases to a location where the plants can finish their life cycle. Remove the bulbs from the vases, and let dry. Plant the bulbs outdoors or in containers, 4-8" deep, 6" apart.

Instructions are a combination of info from Van Zyverden, Inc. literature, and personal comments.
www.vanzyverden.com (product of Israel)
www.digdropdone.com

Indoor Gardening

January is a perfect month to do a little indoor gardening, where it is warm and cozy and dry! With any luck, a little golden winter light streams through the windows.

Christmas cactus, paperwhite bulbs, and pothos vines enjoy extra light and warmth
(Warrior Girl, 3D art by Jason Quisenberry)

Your indoor plants may benefit from being moved around your home to a better location during the winter, either to avoid long periods of low, slanted sun or to capitalize on it. Spend some time observing where winter light lands and adjust plant placement accordingly. For example, plants that flourish in eastern or southern oriented windows in the summer may do better when moved to a western window in winter.

Pothos vines (Epipremnum aureum)

This is a good time to check over your indoor plants for pests, to re-pot or add soil, or to re-evaluate your fertilizer regimes. It's also a good time to learn more about houseplants that would thrive in your home environment, and maybe introduce a new specimen or two. You may want to try propagating plants from cuttings, or even force some bulbs out of season.

Forcing hyacinth bulbs

Indoor gardening doesn't have to be elaborate, but a few projects can provide a lot of satisfaction while you wait out the dark and damp days of winter, until spring comes with all its promise and chores.

Forcing Bulbs: Amaryllis

I love forcing bulbs to bloom out of season especially during the end-of-year holidays, like Thanksgiving and Christmas. Bulbs are easy to grow outside, and just as easy to grow inside. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) are native to tropical and subtropical Americas, from the Caribbean and Mexico to Argentina.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) – day 42

The bulbs are quite large, and the flowers are big and bodacious in shades of red, white, pink, variegated, and more. Depending on the species, each bulb may produce one or two stalks, with each stalk producing two to four flowers. You can purchase bulbs from a variety of sources from hardware stores and garden shops to high-end floral shops. They usually come as a kit with a soilless planting medium such as shredded coir, a container, and the bulb. It is a good idea to opt for the special amaryllis flower stakes to keep the giant blooms upright. The bulbs have been prepped so you can plant immediately, and enjoy watching the fast-growing stems and unfurling blooms.

For this project you'll need:

• One bulb kit from your favorite source
• (Recommended) One amaryllis flower stake per stem 
• (Optional) Shallow bowl or tin, and an old fork

Tooling up – day 1

Stems and leaves – day 20

To grow:

1. Prepare the soil, which typically involves adding water to the compressed coir disk (for example, add 3 1/2 cups water to a three inch disk). Once the water is absorbed, loosen the soil with an old fork. 
2. Optionally, place the root end of the bulb in a shallow pan of water for about 20 minutes. Typically the roots are dry, so this helps "wake them up".
3. Plant the bulb with the pointed end up and just above the soil surface. 
4. Place in a warm room (70 to 75 degrees F. is ideal), but out of direct sun. Keep soil moist, watering more frequently as the leaves grow and flowers open. To extend blooming, try moving the plant to a cooler place in the evening (45 to 55 degrees F.).

Stem and leaves – day 29

Aftercare:

 When the flowers are spent, continue to water and fertilize. When leaves start turning yellow, water only as needed until the foliage dies. Maintain amaryllis indoors or bury pot in semi-shade outside when danger of frost has past. Let dormant amaryllis remain dry through summer. Cut off dry, yellowed foliage just above bulb. Repot every 2 to 3 years. Here in the Bay Area I typically repot the bulbs in large containers (several bulbs to a pot), and keep them outside year round on the covered patio. They typically produce lovely green shiny leaves, and periodically put forth a bloom when the conditions are right. I find the second bloom is not as big and dramatic as the initial bloom, possibly due to my laissez faire treatment, but still very enjoyable.

Instructions are a combination of info from Van Zyverden, Inc. literature, and personal comments.
www.vanzyverden.com (product of Israel)
www.digdropdone.com

Forcing Bulbs: Paperwhites

I love forcing bulbs to bloom out of season for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years. Bulbs are easy to grow, fun to watch, and provide a festive and elegant decoration. Paperwhites (Narcissus papyraceus) are native to Southern Europe and North Africa, and grow throughout the Mediterranean.

They have white fragrant flowers, and long stems and leaves. The bulb requires no preparation, so you can just purchase and plant them. For the holidays, I like to use a tall glass vase, with a layer of marbles or rocks for the roots. No soil is necessary since all the nutrition the plant needs is in the bulb. Just provide water.

Paperwhite bulbs (N. papyraceus 'zita') - day 42

For this project you'll need:

• One or more tall glass vase (see what you already have, or check out your local thrift store)
• Planting medium such as marbles or polished pebbles, available in garden centers
• Six to eight paperwhite bulb, such as N. Papyraceus 'zita' (14-16") or 'Ariel' (12-15") 
• (Optional) Shallow pan

Tooling up - day 1

Stems and leaves - day 20

To grow:

1. In each vase, add marbles or pebbles to a depth of  2-4 inches.
2. Optionally, rinse each bulb and carefully remove some of the loose dry skins. The skin can discolor and taint the water, so this may limit some of that.
3. Optionally, place the root end of the bulbs in a shallow pan of water for about 20 minutes to "wake up" the dry roots.
4. Gently ease the bulb into the planting medium, until about 1/3 covered. The goal is to stabilize the bulbs.
5. Pour water into the vase to cover the marbles or pebbles. Within several days you'll see the roots emerge, and anchor themselves in the marbles or pebbles. 
6. Add fresh water as needed to the same depth.

The stems and leaves tend to flop over as they get taller. You can purchase a flower ring or create a grid of clear floral tape to provide stability as needed. If the water discolors or smells dank, pour it out periodically, being careful to not disrupt the bulbs, and replenish with clean water.

Buds are ready to open - day 33

Aftercare: 

When the flowers are spent, remove them from the plant, and move the vase to a location where the plants can finish their life cycle. Then remove the bulbs from the marbles or pebbles, and let dry. Plant them outdoors 6" deep as you normally would.

These instructions are based on information from Van Zyverden, Inc., and personal experience. Learn more:
www.vanzyverden.com (product of Israel)
www.digdropdone.com

Plant Propagation – Dividing

A couple of months ago we changed our “Birds and Bees” series from sexual reproduction to asexual reproduction (see Plant Propagation– Cuttings, and Plant Propagation – Runners). We learned that asexual reproduction results in an offspring that is a genetic clone of its parent. Some plants produce offsets in the form of a new plant or bulbs.

Gardeners can benefit from these plant habits, by dividing a clump or digging up the bulbs, and replanting. Here are a couple of division projects I worked on this summer, using Jack Kraemer’s Grow Your Own Plants as my inspiration and guide.

Agapanthus spp. (Agapanthus)

I love Agapanthus. Our home came with a good collection of blue and white Agapanthus, and I have encouraged their growth all over the property. Some decry them as being common, and non-native. But I find them amazing and indestructible – thriving in both drought and monsoon.

Agapanthus originated in Southern Africa. They are monocots, and grow in clumps, sometimes even above soil. Periodically I dig up the clumps, and divide them by teasing apart their fleshy roots. They transplant easily to other garden beds, or to containers.

Agapanthus transplants

Agapanthus offsets ready to pull apart

HTML Tables

Crocosmia spp. (Crocosmia)

Our friends, Keith and Beth (both avid gardeners working their steep, terraced backyard) gave us some Crocosmia corms soon after we moved to the San Francisco Bay Area. Beth warned me that the plants are a bit invasive, so I planted them in a large container. Here in the Bay Area, the plants grow, flower, and die back twice a year. They bring a dash of orange color to the back patio when in bloom, and the long, strappy leaves catch the light in a beautiful way.

Crocosmia is native to the grasslands of Southern and Eastern Africa, from South Africa to Sudan. They are monocots, and grow from underground corms (often in chains, with the youngest corm on top and the oldest buried in the soil). The leaves have parallel veins, characteristic of monocots. Periodically I dig up the corms, thinning them out to give the remainder a little more room.

Crocosmia in a container

Crocosmia corms (and seeds)

HTML Tables

This brings our Plant Propagation series to an end for the year. We have barely scratched the surface of the topic, so look for more articles and projects in the future. In the meantime, I encourage you to look for ways to propagate your favorite plants. Redistribute the clones in your own garden, swap them with friends for genetic diversity, or give them away as gifts. You’ll save some money, spread some cheer, and participate in fun and practical science at the same time!

Plants for Clay Soil: Annuals and Bulbs

In this post I am adding annuals and bulbs to the list of plants that thrive in clay soil and partial sun, and are native/Mediterranean, drought-tolerant, and deer-tolerant. Annuals grow for one season, but often reseed themselves and return season after season. Bulbs, corms, and rhizomes typically bloom for a season, then go dormant and store up food for their next blooming cycle. In either case, this is my kind of plant! Their flowers are often showy and colorful.

Bulbs

• Colchicum (Autumn Crocus, Meadow Saffron) – 4-12 inches, with 6 inch spread. Bold pink flowers that resemble crocus, with broad strap-like leaves. Some bloom in spring, others in fall. The fall blooming types frequently grow leaves in spring. Propagates from bulbs. No summer water. Native to the Mediterranean and central Asia. Colchicaceae family (but has been reclassified to the lily family).
• Dietes (Fortnight Lily) – 2-3 feet, with 2-3 feet spread. White flowers that resemble iris, with patterns of yellow and lilac; evergreen, iris-like leaves. Grows in sun or part shade, with little to no water. Deer resistant. Native to Africa. I have several clumps of these and love their blooms. They can grow with very little water, but produce more blooms with some water. Propagates from rhizomes. Iridaceae family.
• Freesia (Freesia) – 6-12 inches, with 6 inch spread. Spikes of fragrant, tubular flowers on wiry stems, with leaves in a fan similar to iris. Hybrid flower colors range from white, to yellow, lavender, purple, pink, red, bright yellow, or orange. Propagates from corms. They like full sun, and do not need water. Native to South Africa. I have a patch of these that have reverted from strong yellow, to very pale yellow. They have a heavenly scent, and bloom with Muscari. Iridaceae family.
• Hyacinthoides hispanica, sometimes sold as Scilla campanulata (Spanish Bluebells) – they grow in clumps as the bulbs divide, with blue (sometimes white or pink) flower bells well-spaced on strong upright stems to 18 inches. Blooms in March and April, with winter sun and often after a good rain. Grows under deciduous trees and shrubs, and propagates freely from bulbs and seeds. This Mediterranean plant is native to the Iberian Peninsula. In my garden, they bloom in early spring, then dry up and disappear during the dry summer months. Asparagaceae family.
• Muscari spp. (Grape Hyacinth) – they grow in clumps as bulbs divide, with blue or white flowers that resemble hyacinth on 8-12 inch spikes, with slim, fleshy leaves. Blooms in early spring after the first rains. Full sun to part shade with winter light, no summer water. Native to Mediterranean and Asia. In my garden, they require no care. They start blooming in early February, giving hope to the winter-weary gardener! Asparagaceae family.

 Muscari

 Spanish Blue Bells

HTML Tables

Annuals

• Clarkia spp. (Clarkia) – 12-30 inches, with 12-18 inch spread. Pink, white, purple, or red flowers (single and double) that resemble California poppy. Small lanceolate leaves are distributed on the stems. Propagate from seed in the fall to take advantage of winter rain. Tolerates clay soil. Native to North and South America, including California. C. rubicunda (herald of summer) is from the Central Coast. Species is named after Captain William Clark, of Lewis and Clark fame. Onagraceae family.
• Gilia tricolor (Gilia, Bird's Eyes) – 6-12 inches, with 8 inch spread. Small, blue-violet flowers with five petals and pale blue pollen; and feathery palmate leaves. Blooms in spring and into summer. Propagate from seed in the fall to take advantage of winter rain. Self-sowing. Does well with occasional water. Native to western North America, including California. Polemoniaceae family.
• Lupinus microcarpus var. densiflorus (Yellow Bush Lupine, Coastal Bush Lupine) – 1-2 feet, with 1-2 feet spread. Clusters of yellow, lilac, or white flowers on tall spikes, with evergreen leaves. Blooms in spring. Does well with occasional water. Native from California to British Columbia. Fabaceae family.
• Nigella damascena (Love-in-a-Mist) – 12-18 inches, with 12 inch spread. Blue flowers and distinctive papery seed pods. Blooms in spring, and then dies back to the ground during the summer. Threadlike leaves, similar to dill. Self-sowing. My gardening buddy, Ruth, gave me seeds from her garden. No water. Native to Mediterranean. Ranunculaceae family.
• Phacelia campanularia (California Dessert Phacelia) – 6-18 inches, with 6-18 inch spread. Deep blue, bell-shaped flowers in spring, with narrow, coarsely-toothed, gray-green leaves. Flowers grow on one side of a coil-shaped stem - resembling a scorpion tail. Attracts butterflies and bees. Native to the California desert, so adapted for dry conditions (but does not like frost). Hydrophyllaceae family.

Good Sources:

• Annie’s Annuals and Perennials: http://www.anniesannuals.com/
• Las Pilitas Nursery (Santa Margarita): http://www.laspilitas.com/
• Telos Rare Bulbs: http://www.telosrarebulbs.com/